dawest48 Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 I need trunk box help! :/ I've got an Alpine head unit 6 Pioneer Premir mids and highs (with crossovers) A 230amp alt 4 gauge wiring (and a couple 2 gauge wires) Red top under the hood 1 Kinetic 1800 for the sub amp Pioneer Premir 675 4 channel (for mids and highs) 1 Crescendo bc2000d 1-4 fared Massive capacitor 2- Alpine Type R 12's So here's my issue. Im upgrading to 2 PSI platform 1 12's. I don't know that I like my current installers box idea. So should I seal my trunk off, or fire my new subs to the back, or the front etc. what the hell should I do with these new subs? Please help!!! The subs are almost here. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishova Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 What kind of car? Pontiac Grand Prix GT400a Mean Machine alt. EIGHT DD 12''s on a DDz2DD vo 8''s,6''s,5.25''s&tweetsNorfolk, VAhttp://www.youtube.c...ser/ovnorfolkvahttps://www.facebook.com/groups/TheSPLSpot/473815915987218/?notif_t=group_activity#!/chrishovahttp://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1[/color] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawest48 Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 My bad. It's a 02 Cavavlier. So, i don't have a lot of room. But I'll sacrifice the entire trunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortezDTV Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 One of the loudest trunks is a cavi....... Anton miller on caco 152 i beleive on 2000 watts and 153 on 4400 watts...... I would do box as far back in the trunk as i could port on drivers side (slot) or round port up the middle SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98aurora Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 The link you supplied Chris was in a ford explorer and the OP is talking about trunk cars I had my whole system pretty much done with zero deadening and tested one thing at a time.... But all of mine are ear-o-meter gains. My trunk was foamed.... Made a HUGE difference.... 3 layers thick of deadener over the foamed lid... Just made it seem like less rattles... Not too much louder..my roof with 1 full layer made a night and day difference. My doors didn't help much, I did 1 layer on rear doors and 3 layers on front doors... And to finalize my trunk I took everyone out and took deadener and covered every small little hole where air could seep into and be lost. But my goal was to 1) demo pink Floyd and impress my aunt who built their stages for 15 years 2) not lose any functionality of my car (no wall, no permanent trunk sealing off) 3) have it all be hidden when I fold my back seat up and park my car (tint helps) 4) have 145+ db of bass at my finger tips for when I'm not doing "sq demos" 5) not have a rattle trap... Most of my car doesn't flex anymore or rattle (besides a few small things) because of how meticulous I've been with my deadening What exactly does "foaming the trunk/roof" mean? and then you put 3 layers of deadener on top of it? please explain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 By foaming the trunk lid.... I found all the hollow parts of my ink lid and surrounding areas and used great stuff expanding foam "cracks and windows one" not the regular one or you will have one messed up looking trunk.... After you foam the crap out of your trunk and seal everything off and make it more solid.... You take your deadener and apply it with a roller to your whole trunk..... Anything that could flex or rattle. Don't be afraid to take apart beauty panels and deaden behind them. But do 1-2 full layers of 100% coverage in the trunk after you have foamed everything solid... Your trying to stop flexing and stop bass from "getting lost" in empty parts of your trunk.... You want it to have no where else to go but to you inside the cabin. Then the roof.... I paid a headliner shop to take mine down.... And I put 100% coverage of my deadener on my roof. It stops flex and metal on metal rattles.... You will still have some rattles because some things have to touch for it to be connected but it makes a huge difference. Do those two things and you will see great results as far as bass goes, when your ready to deaden your doors ill give you a couple hints on more mid bass and less distortion My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98aurora Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 By foaming the trunk lid.... I found all the hollow parts of my ink lid and surrounding areas and used great stuff expanding foam "cracks and windows one" not the regular one or you will have one messed up looking trunk.... After you foam the crap out of your trunk and seal everything off and make it more solid.... You take your deadener and apply it with a roller to your whole trunk..... Anything that could flex or rattle. Don't be afraid to take apart beauty panels and deaden behind them. But do 1-2 full layers of 100% coverage in the trunk after you have foamed everything solid... Your trying to stop flexing and stop bass from "getting lost" in empty parts of your trunk.... You want it to have no where else to go but to you inside the cabin. Then the roof.... I paid a headliner shop to take mine down.... And I put 100% coverage of my deadener on my roof. It stops flex and metal on metal rattles.... You will still have some rattles because some things have to touch for it to be connected but it makes a huge difference. Do those two things and you will see great results as far as bass goes, when your ready to deaden your doors ill give you a couple hints on more mid bass and less distortion Thanks dude, looks like im going to home depot tomorrow for some great stuff! I have 2 rolls of peel and seal, I did my front doors so far. I didn't really see any difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortezDTV Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 Some people loose deadening the roof.... but all would agree that it sounds much better.... deadening helps a ton! SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 Peel and seal is a waste. Take it off and buy some audio Technix or some second skin. You will get minimal results with peel and seal and end up spending more $$ and time then you would just getting good stuff. Just take off the peel and seal in your doors. It's asphalt based too so its bad for your health. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortezDTV Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 Peel and seal is not sound deadener! Do not use it! SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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