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JL w713.5 keeps killing my amps?


ThreehundredC

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So my friend has been having trouble with his system i myself am curious to figure out his issue,

First he has a 2003 F150 extended cab with

one JL W7 13.5 Ported box in the back seat area..

JVC headunit big Yellow top battery under the hood

and just replaced the alternator for the bigger "upgraded " one from autozone

all 4 gauge wire .. 8 gauge speaker wire .

Sub was ran 1.5 ohm switched it to 3 to see if the amp would work better..nope

When he first got it he had it ran off of a Power Acoustik amp (Thinking A3000DB)

about 6 months into it the amp blew causing the sub to FLEX all the way out and all the way in until we ran and ripped out the cables . tested sub still good.

he then baught a amp from the shop new an "xterminator4000" 1500w @1ohm .. now about a year later of light play time it crapped out on us again plays a few seconds or at Very low volumes as soon as you turn it up a little shuts itself down..

my guess was the amp is running less than 1 ohm with a single battery and a POWER hungry sub i think the amp is dropping voltage and trying to grab 12.4 v and its not there to grab sometimes.. but whats your guys diagnostics?

before i go get a another amp and blow it up too

Thanks

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Dude I had the same issue with my 12w3

I think your speaker terminals are touching each other

My RF p500-2 amp died this way

both channels would do that to the sub. one would make it stay out, the other channel would make it stay in.

Thought it was the sub but it was the amp. Sub is 100% fine after putting it on another amp

how is your box terminals? speaker wire to amp/sub? sounds like they are touching each other or something.

Have you taken an ohm meter to the sub? could also be a messed up coil/coils.

also I wold put 1/0 wire if your amp can take it.

I don't know those amps off hand but possible that they are junk to begin with.

I have stock electrical in my HHR with it's crappy 70 amp alternator and NOTHING has failed on me and I get a decent amount of slam out of my 1500d in 1 ohm while staying over 14v. (BTW the lows will really demand more voltage and I'm pretty sure it's worse if you're trying to play frequencies that are lower than your box tuning)

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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yes just today we took it out read the coils they say 1.4 on both sides it doesnt flex in and out any more did that when the last amp went up in smoke but now the amp just turns it self off above volume 15? of 50

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Check that all wires are done neatly.

If they're fine then the amps were just junk or being clipped to death..

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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the speakershop hooked up all the amp and wires the power hole on the amp looked pretty full with the 4g but next amp should upgrade.. looking for some real BASS now the last two amps sounded good but only 1500w ..

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ok so yes, D1.5 coils. So you were either running at .75 OR 3.

running 1.5k+ watts at .75ohms on mostly stock electrical with 4g wiring is what killed your amps more than likely, not the sub. And that isn't even considering how anything was set up.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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