purplesyrup Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 So what have I learned from this? I am pretty sure, as soon as I confirm an alternator, and batteries, with my box or "barrel" rise I should say, I need to run a dual 1 ohm coil, then realistically with box rise I should be running right around 1 ohm. OOOOOOOR add another bc3500D and strap them, hell yea Heres the vid should be done processing in a second. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Just added annotations so you ccan see what hz im playing at the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 those are some long ass burps for a 3500 on stock electrical..... Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 those are some long ass burps for a 3500 on stock electrical..... Been running it like that for over 8 months, The upgrades are to come. A chunk just got spend on my other car so I will be doing the rest shortly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Nice stock electrical system, apparently. Wonder what she will do with more... I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Nice stock electrical system, apparently. Wonder what she will do with more... Well, as I found out my barrel rise keeps me at 2 ohms, i need to recone to a dual 1 ohm coil to get me at the 1 ohm I need to be at for MO POWER, I do have that 100 lb, 6000 amp battery sitting in the garage, and working on a 300 amp alt. that should get me where I need to be, but like I said with the box rise, there may not be too much of a difference in power until I get that bastard down to 1 ohm after rise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Nice stock electrical system, apparently. Wonder what she will do with more... its bone stock, I ran a run of 0 ga, and have a run of 4 so im using that too, 300 amp fuse (just to be prepared, I could not pop a 125 amp) The big difference I noticed was when I ran 3 extra grounds off of my battery. HUGE difference, 6 stands of 4 ga. its what I had laying around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg93f150 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 OK, my head unit is in and working fine now, so I figured I'd run a clamp test to see if it made any difference at my cars resonant frequency, I am tuned to 36 hz, but my peak SPL in competition is 47 hz. Off of the factory head unit my highest clamp i've ever done at 47 hz was 1,200 watts, which sucked cause im not using any power at my peak hz. Here is how todays clamp went, remember, stock electrical, stock battery up front, stock 150 amp alternator, no big 3. the car was running and idles at 13.6 volts. I kinda rushed through it, I was in my driveway and wanted to only piss my neighbors off for a few minutes, my step son filmed the whole clamp test, but the picture is upside down, I need to put it on the computer and see if I can flip it. The bet part is after the 47 hz blast his saying "The sound is making my eyes hurt" lol 27hz 2,200 watts 28hz 2,184 29hz 2,204 30hz 2,142 31hz 2,109 36hz 1,888 40hz 1,492 I have some box rise that seems to start around 35/36hz and goes through approx. 44hz, I want to re clamp from 33hz through 46hz to pin point exactly what is happening, and see where the power loss is. It was very loud (neighbors like wtf) so after I did 40 hz, I went straight for 47 hz which is around my peak hz, 47 hz 2,200 Now given, when I add a batterie(s) and get my alternator, I will be able to provide the amp with power to make what its capable of producing. So from clamps im getting 1,000 more watts at my peak 47 hz now, so it is significantly louder. damn.. 2200 watt's at the max.. YOU NEEDA GET SOME MORE POWER! haha im jokin, but i would really like to see what this does on some real electrical since i plan on getting one.. butt that might of made me change my mind haha ALL CREDIT TO XX1 FOR DC BANNER down rpping vanderbilt. 30 miles from victoria. i own the 3rd loudest setup here out of 3. but i did put together all 3 setups strapping 2 amps together ? like bolting them next together? using bungy cables to hold them down? or wiring separate amps to each sub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 OK, my head unit is in and working fine now, so I figured I'd run a clamp test to see if it made any difference at my cars resonant frequency, I am tuned to 36 hz, but my peak SPL in competition is 47 hz. Off of the factory head unit my highest clamp i've ever done at 47 hz was 1,200 watts, which sucked cause im not using any power at my peak hz. Here is how todays clamp went, remember, stock electrical, stock battery up front, stock 150 amp alternator, no big 3. the car was running and idles at 13.6 volts. I kinda rushed through it, I was in my driveway and wanted to only piss my neighbors off for a few minutes, my step son filmed the whole clamp test, but the picture is upside down, I need to put it on the computer and see if I can flip it. The bet part is after the 47 hz blast his saying "The sound is making my eyes hurt" lol 27hz 2,200 watts 28hz 2,184 29hz 2,204 30hz 2,142 31hz 2,109 36hz 1,888 40hz 1,492 I have some box rise that seems to start around 35/36hz and goes through approx. 44hz, I want to re clamp from 33hz through 46hz to pin point exactly what is happening, and see where the power loss is. It was very loud (neighbors like wtf) so after I did 40 hz, I went straight for 47 hz which is around my peak hz, 47 hz 2,200 Now given, when I add a batterie(s) and get my alternator, I will be able to provide the amp with power to make what its capable of producing. So from clamps im getting 1,000 more watts at my peak 47 hz now, so it is significantly louder. damn.. 2200 watt's at the max.. YOU NEEDA GET SOME MORE POWER! haha im jokin, but i would really like to see what this does on some real electrical since i plan on getting one.. butt that might of made me change my mind haha Remember man, this whole test with box rise ran at 2.17 ohms and up, which means I was actually putting out 2204 watts, on stock electrical, at 2.17 ohm, This is actually very impressive considering the BC3500D's rated 2 ohm operating RMS power is 1900 watts. So realistically, I clamped 300 watts over its rated power output at 2 ohms on a stock electrical system. So I spoke with DD audio today about reconing my sub to a dual 1 ohm to counter the box rise, this should put me at 1 ohm operating power with the box rise. The amp would technically be wired at 0.5 ohms, but it would be operating at 1 ohm because of the rise. Of coarse im not going to do this until I install batts and a big alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 Barrel rise lol. I like your idea of running the extra grounds, I know grounds are a big part of feeding any amp that's why I am going with dedicated runs don't want to leave anything to chance. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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