bassfreake Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 ok last "you dumb noob" feeling inducing question for a while I swear... when you're wiring multiple speakers to the same channel does it matter if you chain the speakers together (wire from amp to speaker1... then speaker1 to speaker2... then speaker2 to speaker3... etc) or just run them all back to the amp? I mean aside from the second one taking alot more wire... and the potential for an over abundance of wire all stuffed into the terminal on the amp... assuming all the speakers on that particular channel are the same would it make any difference one way or another? I've always just wired my subs in a chain just wondering if doing it the other way would be any better or worse... in some back corner of my mind I can kinda sorta imagine on both sides where there might be potential for that way to be less than perfect... (for a chain, maybe each one it runs through could cause just a little bit more resistance dulling the power... whereas the other way just generally all that extra wire needed to go back to the amp every time might slow things down) Thanks I was pretty excited about the alt myself. kind of like a school girl, in a dress, on a swing. lol It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 If you daisy-chain then the initial run of wire from the amp to the first speaker must be able to carry the current for all the speakers. This is all speakers in parallel. Ex: each speaker pulls 10A and you have 4 speakers. That first run of wire must handle 40A. Second run must do 30A. Third run 20A. Last run 10A. If you run seperate wires for each speaker then those seperate wires can be smaller as they'd each only have to supply current for each speaker (Ex: 10A). If all speakers are in series then the same current flows through all speakers. All wire should be equal and large enough for the needed current. Assumes all speakers are equal impedances. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassfreake Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 ooh... ok good to know thanks for the info. I always wondered what parallel wiring vs series wiring meant... hmm... I hope the wire on my subs can handle the juice for both subs once I actually give them real juice... I always just had them on an Audiopipe 1800 but once I got around to wiring them down to 1ohm I never turned the amp up higher than about 1/3 power cuz higher than that they gave me feedback... but there was alot wrong with that setup anyway... on that setup I had a 0 gauge wire joined directly into a 4 gauge wire no stepping down or nothing (some car audio guy's idea of putting a 0 gauge wire in a 4 gauge hole) had a 4 gauge ground (since of course... there's only a 4 gauge actually going into the amp so you only need a 4 gauge ground right? ... also same car audio guy's idea) and that 4 gauge was ground onto the bolt on my back seat... still with the paint on the bolt too... (different car audio guy's idea) Thanks I was pretty excited about the alt myself. kind of like a school girl, in a dress, on a swing. lol It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 What wire size are you running to the subs? This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassfreake Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 16 gauge speaker wire I believe. I'm glad I asked this question about wiring since I was planning to start running 2k to them in a couple weeks lol Thanks I was pretty excited about the alt myself. kind of like a school girl, in a dress, on a swing. lol It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 That is a bit small. What can the amp output terminals handle? That's always a good rule of thumb to follow is to just run the max wire into the terminals. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassfreake Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 not sure I haven't gotten the new amp yet. the old amp could handle 8 gauge but there's no way to fit 2 8 gauge wires in the terminals on the subs that's why I dropped to 16 gauge when I rewired them to 1ohm cuz I had some of that left over from my old subs Thanks I was pretty excited about the alt myself. kind of like a school girl, in a dress, on a swing. lol It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 I prefer to shave off a couple strands and have a little bit of patients and get Both them in there. maybe just me My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassfreake Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 hmm... if I stripped the wire a little farther up (high enough to have double what I would need to fit it in the terminal on the sub) and then twisted the wires together and wrapped it in electrical tape... ik it wouldn't be pretty but would that be a way to get both wires "connected" to the terminal without having to get both 8 gauge wires in? or else is there something between 16 and 8 that I could get that would fit? if I can help it I like to prefer to try to not trim half the wires to make stuff fit if I can help it... maybe I'm just paranoid but that doesn't seem like it would really be any better for my system than what F**ked up my system last time... guy at the car audio shop told me that to get a 1/0 gauge wire in a 4 gauge hole I could just use a random spare fuse that I had lying around and put the 1/0 gauge in one end and the 4 gauge in the other end (the fuse wasn't actually being used as a fuse for anything that fuse was a 50A higher rating than the fuse I had by my battery) ... needless to say that was a really bad idea all it succeeded in doing was winding up with a nicely charred 4 gauge wire and the plastic around the terminal melted and fused to what was left of the 4 gauge. Thanks I was pretty excited about the alt myself. kind of like a school girl, in a dress, on a swing. lol It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 hmm... if I stripped the wire a little farther up (high enough to have double what I would need to fit it in the terminal on the sub) and then twisted the wires together and wrapped it in electrical tape... ik it wouldn't be pretty but would that be a way to get both wires "connected" to the terminal without having to get both 8 gauge wires in? or else is there something between 16 and 8 that I could get that would fit? if I can help it I like to prefer to try to not trim half the wires to make stuff fit if I can help it... maybe I'm just paranoid but that doesn't seem like it would really be any better for my system than what F**ked up my system last time... guy at the car audio shop told me that to get a 1/0 gauge wire in a 4 gauge hole I could just use a random spare fuse that I had lying around and put the 1/0 gauge in one end and the 4 gauge in the other end (the fuse wasn't actually being used as a fuse for anything that fuse was a 50A higher rating than the fuse I had by my battery) ... needless to say that was a really bad idea all it succeeded in doing was winding up with a nicely charred 4 gauge wire and the plastic around the terminal melted and fused to what was left of the 4 gauge. I would stay away from twisting wire together and using e-tape. Not secure at all. e-tape gets a bit slimy when heated and may not hold properly. It is a hassle dealing with those damn speaker push-terminals and trying to use multiple wires. A couple of options: 1.) Run separate wires from each voicecoil out to bolts or some other solid termination mechanism on the side of your sub-box. You can then configure your wiring as needed with ring terminals on the speaker wire which connect to the bolts. 2.) Stack-able banana-plugs. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=091-1075 Wire from the amp inserts into the banana-plug, screwed down and secured. The banana-plug end is then inserted into the push-terminal of the Sub. A second wire is inserted into another banana-plug and then insert the second banana-plug into the first (stack-able). The other end of the second wire is then routed to the second Sub. Probably a good idea to use plenty of shrink-wrap on the wire-banana-plug interface to make sure the banana-plugs don't rotate and short positive and negative together. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.