Carbon Posted May 30, 2013 Author Report Posted May 30, 2013 From Fi to dc. He must not have ever had them playing I'm sorry I had to 4 15s ehh. I like where this is going tho! Nope, never played them. Never seen power. Currently for sale. Sadly they would not fit. 4 15s has more cone area anyway. As of this second here is the plan. (you guys wanted it!) -10 PWX 6s -6 FT1 tweets -4 DC Level 4 15s -2 DC 5K -3 DC 4.175 -3SIXTY3 + iPad I assume this will be around 12kW total. Should be fine electrically. Have 8 Runs going into each 5K. 1/0 reducers for the 175s. All SHCA 1/0. 5 AGM batts. Mechman 320A *22 Runs of 1/0 to the amps. *4 runs from the engine compartment to the trunk. *2 runs from the alt to the batt. *8 runs from the batts to the chassis.
OrionStang Posted May 30, 2013 Report Posted May 30, 2013 WHy not XL's? SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
Carbon Posted May 30, 2013 Author Report Posted May 30, 2013 WHy not XL's? level 4 1400/2800 Level XL 2200/4400 Multiply by 4. The MINIMUM for the level 4 would be 5,600 MAX 11,200 The MINIMUM for the level XL would be 8,800 MAX 17,600 2 5Ks = 10K. 10,000 watts is perfect for the Level 4 IMO.
OrionStang Posted May 30, 2013 Report Posted May 30, 2013 So you based your decision off max ratings? Thats all you had to say. Im aware of the math. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
Carbon Posted May 30, 2013 Author Report Posted May 30, 2013 So you based your decision off max ratings? Thats all you had to say. Im aware of the math. Enlighten me... I dont see the point of buying subs that I will dramatically underpower. Why not just buy subs that are more in the range of what the amp puts out.
OrionStang Posted May 30, 2013 Report Posted May 30, 2013 Add up rms, then enlighten yourself. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
Bradprobert Posted May 30, 2013 Report Posted May 30, 2013 Or, just change your mind again and put in two 12Ks. [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223] 4th-order under rear seat build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165708-4th-order-under-rear-seat-chevy-extended-cab/#entry2410477 SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .
Carbon Posted May 30, 2013 Author Report Posted May 30, 2013 Add up rms, then enlighten yourself. I did. seems about right to me after box rise... Or, just change your mind again and put in two 12Ks. I'd love to have more power but I can only fit one alt under the hood. Not willing to ditch my A/C
hdorre Posted May 30, 2013 Report Posted May 30, 2013 I dont see the point of buying subs that I will dramatically underpower.Wait.. Im confused. The total RMS of the XLs is 8800 and you have 10kwrms on tap. Edit: Are you talking about after voltage drop and impedance rise? On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread
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