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Sonic Electronix

New to car audio! Need some insight!


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Any agm battery will do better than a regular lead acid. A lot of members here like xs power

Nice, I'd probably go with that Duralast Platinum. XS Power is way outta my budget range lol.

“The fascination of flight can't be expressed with words. But it really lies beyond the capabilities of human endeavor. Once you've experienced it, you'll never be able to forget it.” - Friedrich Oblessor

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check out kinetik and compare specs on their batteries to find one with the performance and size you need. they are worth the money and it might not be that much more if any more at all. that auto zone batter is almost $160.

check out sonic electronix. they have free shipping, which is awesome considering how heavy these things are. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m162_i228_kinetik-car-batteries-and-power-cells.html

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check out kinetik and compare specs on their batteries to find one with the performance and size you need. they are worth the money and it might not be that much more if any more at all. that auto zone batter is almost $160.

check out sonic electronix. they have free shipping, which is awesome considering how heavy these things are. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m162_i228_kinetik-car-batteries-and-power-cells.html

Cool will do! I also like the fact that Auto Zone recycles my old battery and gives me some sort of credit towards my new battery purchase, and also covers it with a 3 year warranty so I can take it back if it dies within that time frame.

“The fascination of flight can't be expressed with words. But it really lies beyond the capabilities of human endeavor. Once you've experienced it, you'll never be able to forget it.” - Friedrich Oblessor

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Ok, so I am actually taking my vehicle back to the Fry's install bay on Monday for them to check out what's wrong. I am pretty sure by now it's the remote wire that's causing the amp cut offs. They offer a 30 day quality work guarantee, and it hasn't been that long since they installed it, so I guess it's a good deal.

Can't wait to get this all up and running perfectly. Definitely gonna try to get some pics in! B)

“The fascination of flight can't be expressed with words. But it really lies beyond the capabilities of human endeavor. Once you've experienced it, you'll never be able to forget it.” - Friedrich Oblessor

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just a word of advice the kenwood is a nice amp, but there power hungry. and if you ever need help i live outside of victoria tx and be willing to help with installs or such. ive got a total of 28 under my belt

Thanks! I'll start with upgrading the battery after I get my amp cut out problem solved. Then if my lights still dim like crazy during bass drops and big beats, then I'll look into the Big 3 and alternator upgrade, but the alternator upgrade will require me to save up for a bit before I can afford it. I'm still breaking in my DB1222s. They sound pretty damn good, and I'll bet they'll kick even harder and lower once broken in!

“The fascination of flight can't be expressed with words. But it really lies beyond the capabilities of human endeavor. Once you've experienced it, you'll never be able to forget it.” - Friedrich Oblessor

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just a word of advice the kenwood is a nice amp, but there power hungry. and if you ever need help i live outside of victoria tx and be willing to help with installs or such. ive got a total of 28 under my belt

Thanks! I'll start with upgrading the battery after I get my amp cut out problem solved. Then if my lights still dim like crazy during bass drops and big beats, then I'll look into the Big 3 and alternator upgrade, but the alternator upgrade will require me to save up for a bit before I can afford it. I'm still breaking in my DB1222s. They sound pretty damn good, and I'll bet they'll kick even harder and lower once broken in!

Snafu I believe, did a write up on here of why it's actually smarter to upgrade the alternator first rather than batteries. But it seems like usually people get 2 batteries total and then an alt and then more batts.

Sheena = pedobear

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Heh well I still gotta find out how many amps my current stock alternator is. A lot of people say it's usually around 60-80 amps. If I were to upgrade to a 100 amp alternator, would it help much for my 1800W peak, 900W RMS Kenwood amp? Hopefully an alternator around the 100 to low 100s amp range won't cost an arm and leg!

As for the battery, what is the major features I must look for in a car audio grade type? I know now that the AGM deep cycle batteries do better than your typical lead acid. Also, do I need to look at cold cranking amps or just amps in general? Does the amp hour also matter?

“The fascination of flight can't be expressed with words. But it really lies beyond the capabilities of human endeavor. Once you've experienced it, you'll never be able to forget it.” - Friedrich Oblessor

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i own that same amplifier and i have the same problem. I can almost 100% gaurantee that the problem is the amp itself and not the wiring. Ive checked every connection in my vehicle and the amp still cuts out after a while of use. Read most of the reviews of the amp on amazon and alot of them will say the same thing.

I do love the amp for it being affordable and delivering alot of power but there is no way to stop it from cutting out. my suggestion is to turn the low pass frequency down to the lowest setting and the bass boost down aswell. Dont forget to have the install guys set the gain properly.

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i own that same amplifier and i have the same problem. I can almost 100% gaurantee that the problem is the amp itself and not the wiring. Ive checked every connection in my vehicle and the amp still cuts out after a while of use. Read most of the reviews of the amp on amazon and alot of them will say the same thing.

I do love the amp for it being affordable and delivering alot of power but there is no way to stop it from cutting out. my suggestion is to turn the low pass frequency down to the lowest setting and the bass boost down aswell. Dont forget to have the install guys set the gain properly.

Actually, I just got it redone today by the Fry's install guys. It was INDEED the wiring! The part where the power wire comes out of the battery and connects to the fuse and fuse holder... the wire got so hot that it melted part of the fuse holder and the fuse became free to move about, therefore disconnecting my power every time the vehicle was in motion, hit a bump, or made a turn etc. Even they said that this particular amp drew a whole lotta current! I had to pickup a much beefier Monster wire kit, and had it rewired with a new fuse holder and fuse. I drove around all day today and haven't heard the amp cut out ever since. Hopefully this wiring kit lasts and doesn't get hot enough to cause problems again. My previous wiring kit was a dirt cheap off brand one, so I'm not surprised of what happened.

For now, everything seems to be working normal again. Subs are a bit more broken in, and sound better everyday! I think I might have to replace my rear view mirrors soon LOL!

I'll have to test at night time to see how much my lights dim when bass is cranked. I'll assume that the better wiring might lessen that problem a bit, but hey... never know. I plan on getting a new battery in a week or two when I have some extra funds. ^_^

“The fascination of flight can't be expressed with words. But it really lies beyond the capabilities of human endeavor. Once you've experienced it, you'll never be able to forget it.” - Friedrich Oblessor

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Of course, as promised... here are some shots of what my install looks like!! Don't laugh, it's my first ever setup! I'll learn to do it slowly in the future and plan on many more upgrades! B)

Polk Audio DB1222 subwoofers + enclosure. 720W RMS, 1440W peak.

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Kenwood KAC-9105D monoblock class D amp, 900W RMS @ 2 ohms, 1800W peak.

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Kenwood KDC-355U head unit.

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Stock JBL speakers, mids and highs!

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“The fascination of flight can't be expressed with words. But it really lies beyond the capabilities of human endeavor. Once you've experienced it, you'll never be able to forget it.” - Friedrich Oblessor

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