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knubs

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    Joshua Tree, CA

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  1. That's what I was trying last night, but it's hard to get the corners shaped right.
  2. So I'm trying to make a custom panel to mount my voltage meter in and I have the perfect spot to do it but I just can't figure out how to make a template. I'm goin to use 1/8 inch MDF but I'm not sure how to get a perfect fitting piece to fit into the slot that I want. I attached a picture of the spot I want it to go. It will be the empty spot to the right of the cigarette lighter. You can see the grooves around the edges where something would sit into it perfect but I don't know how to copy that shape. If anybody has any suggestions I'd appreciate it!
  3. Thanks guys! Sub up port back sounds like the winner. I am also definitely throwing in some damplifier.
  4. Thanks a bunch ! I've gone through and read most of your relevant threads now. It sounds like the aeroport isn't going to work for me, so I just threw a design together for a slot port box with 32.5" of port area(does that sound OK or should I go bigger?). I'm going to attach some pics of Torres and sketchup. If you guys could glance at them and tell me if everything looks right I'd appreciate it. Also let me know if you see anything I could improve upon. I may also add 45's in the port as well. Thanks everyone!
  5. Well I guess Torres kind of mislead me a little then, but what you guys are saying totally makes sense. What I don't understand is how people have enough space in a box to use aeroports. I need roughly 30" of port length to get to 35hz. That is massive! I've heard that you should never put a bend in an aeroport so how is it possible to get that length? I only have 26"of depth. It looks like most people have really short aero's and that confuses me. I'm tempted to buy bass box pro just so I can understand this all a little better, but i don't know if I want to spend that much on software when I won't be building boxes all that often. If you guys could help explain it and point me in the direction of some good reading material I'd be stoked. I'd really love to feel like I know what I'm doing when I set out to design a box.
  6. Wow, thanks for the input you guys! I had already read the "understanding ports" thread and that's actually the reason I am choosing to try aeros. I had not, however, read Triticum's thread and that thread/calculator was awesome as well! Lots of good info there. I love info that leads me to understand what I'm doing and why. I now realize that my last box in my other car had way too small of a port for an XL. It is looking like 2 4" ports are the new idea. It is similar port area to a 6", but I can split my length into two ports instead of one so that I can get away with not having a port that is unreasonably long. What do you guys think about that?
  7. I am wanting to run 2 3" ports because I am planning on the box being 1.5 cubic feet. That equals 9.42" of port area per cubic foot. Isn't 8-12" per cubic foot what most people aim for? It's my first aero box so I'm open for suggestions. I will be running a 2400w hifonics Brutus amp at 1ohm for the sub. I will have a kinetik hc-2400 and an hc-1800 for batteries and also I have a 130a alternator. My planned tuning for the box is 35hz. Thank's for the input!
  8. What's up everyone? It's been a while since I've done a build and I'm starting one in my 07 subaru forester. Im working on the box design right now and I'm indecisive on whether I should have the sub up or facing back. The sub is a 12" DC XL m2. I've decided I am going to run 2 3" aeroports since I've only ever done slot ports. I'm pretty sure I want them facing the back, but I don't know how to determine the sub direction. Also where should the ports be in relation to the sub? If the sub is facing up should the aeroports be in the middle of the back wall of the box, or closer to the bottom? Do you want the ports close to the sub or further away? Also since I'm running 2 ports should they be right next to each other or should I space them out?
  9. did i mention my system is well over the value of my car alone lol? i don't care about the value of my car. everything on it is new except the engine and the transmission. i can't sell the car for much because it has a salvage title over the hood getting bent in a parking lot, but i don't care. this car is never getting sold. i will drive it until it is no longer fixable. i just want a reliable vehicle and i dont want a brand new car. i see my friends all spending between $1-3000k on old beat up cars and every one of them is just an unreliable piece of shit. with the thousands i've dumped into this car over the years, why start over on another car? in about a year i plan on building a 68 chevelle, but even then i want to still have another car that doesn't have a big block under the hood and gets good gas mileage.
  10. it has over 200,000 miles and my new job requires me to drive up and down a large hill every day and my car is not handling it like she use to. i can tell it isn't going to last long at this rate. if i don't do something about it ahead of time i'm going to just screw myself. i can't afford to miss work. oh, and i don't think the weight of my system helps much... lol
  11. hey guys, where can i find rebuilt engines? i'm looking for one for a 2002 mitsubishi lancer es. i've searched around online and it has yielded nothing but $500 used engines on ebay... also, would it be practical to have my engine rebuilt? it is still running right now, but it is just getting up there in miles. can anyone guess at how much that would cost?
  12. some guy yesterday told me his shit was way louder than mine because i only have one 12...a DC XL 12 mind you lol.. and.he had a 10 and a 12. both were in their own sealed box, and they were both hooked to a 1000w amp. he bragged about how he set his system up and how both speakers were "competition" speakers.. he said the 12 was more for the highs and the 10 was for the lows. he couldn't tell me if they were single or dual voice coil subs, or what impedance they were wired to. he didn't even know what an ohm was. he wanted to have a "sub off" so we went to the street. i walked up to his car and he insisted we hear my car first. so we got in my car and i turned the bass knob down and cranked the volume up. i eased into it and he looked like his mind was blown with a song slamming at 45hz, then i dropped some 30hz decaf on him and he bailed out lol. after that we got in his car. he said he wanted me to play my music. so i plugged in my phone and just hit play on the 30hz song that was already playing. you could barely hear the bass even though he had his sub out and lows on the head unit cranked, and on loud mode! i played some non decaf on his system and i would estimate it hit maybe a 126db.... i definitely don't think he expected 140db from a 12 in my trunk though lol. that was awesome for me. my DC is making me proud!!
  13. i will probably be at the show sunday. i had a DC Xl 15 but i reconed it to a 12. i just have it in some box i built a while back for a 900w sub for now though... still sounds okish, but my box flexes a bit. i want to bring my friend and get him some good demos. he has never heard anything 145+ and i've been getting him more and more into car audio.
  14. well i've been slamming this XL 12 for a little bit now and it's been doing 'ok' in the box i have (1.5cft 35hz). last night i got bored though and built a 10" external port for my box and threw a couple 2x4's on it to reinforce it. i am now tuned to 30hz and this shit got a LOT louder!!! it is as loud if not a bit louder than when i had this speaker as a 15. i'm getting louder one step at a time. it is taking some playing around, but that's what it's all about right?
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