New to car audio! Need some insight!

[DireRaptor22]

Greetings all!!

Well, this is my first post here, I've been a long time YouTube viewer and basshead, but never actually got the chance to own one till now!

So basically, the vehicle I currently drive is a 2002 Toyota Sienna (minivan people, anyone?) Heh, so anyways... I've always liked the stock JBL system but it's just never bassy enough for my tastes. I recently had the car installers at my local Fry's Electronics hook up a Kenwood KDC-355U head unit, along with drilling a hole through the firewall to make room for the power cable that runs to the battery. Then they also ran the wires beneath the panels so none of it is visible... yea, never done this stuff myself, so better safe than sorry right?

Just got my amp today, it's a Kenwood KAC-9105D monoblock beast! Now here's the weird part... I have it hooked up to a 12" sub that came out of a home theater box, a rather high end SVS woofer to be exact. It hits extremely hard in a 1.7 cu ft. ported box! Never felt bass like that in my vehicle before, ever! Had a good drive today bumping some tunes!

Now here's the weird part. The amp will randomly cut out every once in awhile, then randomly come back. This happens regardless of what volume I'm playing at... could be super loud or super soft. Amp is completely off when it cuts out, as in the lights turn off. I ruled out overheating as the issue, because it's not exactly hot outside right now, and the amp has a build in cooling fan. Amp is also very cold to the touch even after heavy play. I'm thinking this could be a wiring issue? Perhaps not properly grounded etc?

Also, I noticed that when I'm playing at very high volumes, my lights will slightly dim when the bass hits. Headlights, tailights, etc. I have no clue how many amps my stock alternator puts out, but I do know that my battery is a (most likely piece of junk for you guys) Everstart Maxx 24-FS that I got at Wal-Mart. Now, keep in mind... I've never had hands on experience with cars, so I'm completely car illiterate for the time being. Would the first step be upgrading the battery? Kinda broke atm, could probably afford a nicer battery over a new alternator for now.

Other than that, when nothing is going wrong, the system sounds amazing. Great low end and LOUD. I see why so many people prefer to have a system in a larger vehicle like an SUV/Van than a car, better acoustics overall eh?

Thanks for reading if you actually had the patience to go through a noobie's questions. Hope to learn a lot from you guys!! Peace out.

[mav1989]

To combat the dimming of the lights i would suggest a battery upgrade and/or a "Big 3 upgrade" you can find a tutorial here (http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/13280-how-to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/)

[WastedTalent]

I'm not sure, i'll let someone more experienced answer but in my opinion? Bad connection... either power or ground. Could potentially be on either side. Like the ground into the amp or ground on the chassis. Power from the battery or power into the amp. Etc.

As for the lights, i'd do a battery upgrade, big 3, ect... just as mav said.

[Achaleon]

Trace the wires from the amp all the way back to your battery. look for frays or cracks. Pay real close attention to the hole they drilled through your firewall. Alot of places like that (fry's, best buy etc) never file down and cover the sharp metal left behind from the cut, over time with normal vehicle vibration this can cut into your wire.

[gufman]

I agree with everyone that's posted. Definitely plan on upgrading your battery. Then, do a Big 3 upgrade. Those 2 upgrades should help, but if your lights are still dimming then upgrade your power wire from the battery to the amp (running 0 awg cable would be best) and ground wire from the amp. And last but not least, save up and get better alt.

[knubs]

"Then they also ran the wires beneath the panels so none of it is
visible... yea, never done this stuff myself, so better safe than sorry
right?"

no. how will you learn like that? sure you might not have the experience, but you never will if you let others do the work for you. i was scared when i tore my car apart the first time, but i didn't ruin anything and it was much easier the second time(and even easier the third and hundredth time!) . also no one will take care of your vehicle like you would while working on it (unless it's Steve meade or something lol). you don't know if they actually did a good job or if they just rushed and threw it all in and hoped for the best. they could have done a bad job running the wires and messed up the remote wire or something. most remote wires are thin and kind of delicate, so one panel crushing it could have damaged it causing the amp to turn off. if you notice the problem progressively getting worse then it could just be a wire breaking. if it was their fault then you will be sorry that you played it 'safe'.

to check and see if it is the remote wire with a break, hook a multi meter to the remote wire and start bumpin; you should see a voltage reading when the amp is on so keep playing until the amp shuts off. when it shuts off look at the multi meter, if it doesn't show a voltage from the remote then that is the problem

[Carbon]

Welcome to SMD bro! Lots of good guys here

[hhowell1990]

I agree with what's already been said that it's a bad connection somewhere, either power, ground, remote, or a combination of two or more. As far as the Big 3 upgrade I live in Austin, if it's something you want to do I could help you some time to upgrade it. PM me if you want some help

[DireRaptor22]

Awesome guys! Thanks for the tips!!

I checked out the install with a coworker today, and mostly everything so far seems in good shape. The ground is properly done (sanded down, making proper contact with metal of vehicle), and the place where they drilled the hole in the firewall is properly protected so the wire is not getting cut into. Even checked the battery connections and the fuse. Nothing seems at fault.

HOWEVER, I haven't checked the remote wire yet, so that may be something I wanna look into, thanks for bringing that up knubs! You're also right about the whole DIY thing... I was this way too when I first got into custom computers too many years ago. Now everything in that manner I do myself, I've gone from basic system builds to full out enthusiast custom loop water cooling systems! (Own one right now)

Another update, I bought myself a Polk DB-1222 today for $150 (normally goes for $399)... awesome on sale deal!! Basically dual 12" with enclosure. One of my coworkers has one in his car and it sounds fantastic to me. Couldn't pass up that great of a deal!

As far as the battery and alternator, I guess it's safe to upgrade the easiest to do first right? I plan on upgrading my battery first (please stop me if this is not a good way to do it). I was eying this battery: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Platinum-Battery/2002-Toyota-Sienna/_/N-jhv1xZacy27?itemIdentifier=319464_351690_0_ seems like a pretty nice one. I'll keep your offer in mind, hhowell1990, in case I need the big 3 upgrade. Thanks for the offer!

[rocking.that.eclipse]

Any agm battery will do better than a regular lead acid. A lot of members here like xs power