shogen Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 A bad connection will result in increased resistance only at the location of the bad connection itself. Therefore if it was a bad ground then that spot would get hot. If it was a bad connection at the amp then that would get hot. You show two heated amp terminals, unlikely that you have two loose terminals that would cause that much damage. You mentioned that the whole wire got hot, that points to a very large DC current draw overall. Take an ohmmeter and measure the resistance across the input power terminals of the amp (disconnected from the system). I'm guessing a low impedance short that would draw a heavy current but not enough to blow the fuse. I'm also guessing that there was also some corrosion at both input terminals as well, given the amount of heat that was generated. If the connections were clean and solid then you should have had heat damage on all your wire terminations/interconnections. Raptor, don't miss this! Ignore the people talking about your grounds, it doesn't work like that. Like said over and over, the problem is with your connection. Either A) like skittles said you didn't clamp the wire in well enough on either input causing extra heat (this much heat could easily melt the remote plastic as well) or there is something else going on like wicks said, some internal short. If you can, check the power wire with a clamp meter with no music playing, you should have a small current draw on the scale of a few amps max. I didn't miss it. I've made a mental note to come back and read through it again for when I get home and can sit down and work on it. DB-r electronics OP.... Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 amp is probably far past the "fucked" point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptorman Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay past. Haha. Thanks for all the help though guys. Looks like it's time to save up. Gotta find a turd amp to test and make sure the same problem doesn't happen again. 1996 GMC Sonoma Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass 2 Ampere 5k's @ .5 TEAM FI TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said: Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega5002 Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Post pics 2003 Kia Sorento Team Subsonic LowsTeam Bassin' on a Budget2016 Rebuild Under Construction Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ric006 Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thus is why i have never left plastic in its place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptorman Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Wasn't the plastic. The metal literally fused together or some black magic shit, I stripped all the plastic off. Then cut a deep line in the set screw with a dremel, then stuck a fat flat head in the deep cut, then clamped on the handle with vice grips, straddled the amp on the floor and tried to turn the vice grip counterclockwise. The flatheads would break every time. I'll post a pic in a bit.Got one screw out, the other wouldn't budge. Tried to bore through it, bits were breaking. Not worth the trouble after I saw all the solder pour out of the amp. 1996 GMC Sonoma Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass 2 Ampere 5k's @ .5 TEAM FI TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said: Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Man im sorry to hear, can you get some pics of the board? do you think you had an internal short like on my last amp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptorman Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Don't know for sure. And the board looks alright to me. It's just that all the solder points have... A lot less solder now. Haha. Not any burn marks or anything. It never made any weird noises or stopped playing for me so I can't really tell you what happened. 1996 GMC Sonoma Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass 2 Ampere 5k's @ .5 TEAM FI TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said: Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptorman Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 1996 GMC Sonoma Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass 2 Ampere 5k's @ .5 TEAM FI TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said: Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 /\/\ Does any parts in teh amp look torched? It looks like the metal rail in front of the remote terminal looks like it got hot, as far as the solder, looks like the solder was heated and came off around the power and ground inputs, i really cant see anything else in the amp that appears to be fried, It could have been as simple as that loose solder caused a short in the amp, My eclipse did something similar to what yours did, except you caught yours early, mine just caught on fire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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