Jessica Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 You don't NEED to use a table saw. All you really need for basic basic building is a skilsaw and a jigsaw. That's all I have needed to use I would add to that a 4ft level and a couple clamps. It's only like $30 and then he will have a fence for the circular saw to keep the cuts straight. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiKaZz74 Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 did you try moving the port Lol I see what u did there. xDAnd this may not be ideal but I'd like a port on each side sub in middle if I rebuild it. But I have level and clamps its the angles that bit me cuz its angled to fit in back seat. My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiKaZz74 Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 I sent a request to ram now waiting to see what he says. My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kl0wn Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 You don't NEED to use a table saw. All you really need for basic basic building is a skilsaw and a jigsaw. That's all I have needed to useI would add to that a 4ft level and a couple clamps. It's only like $30 and then he will have a fence for the circular saw to keep the cuts straight. My bad i forgot to add that. But anything straight really. I just use a 4ft squared piece of metal I found at Lowes one day. First box I ever built I did it all freehanded and it was terrible. Used that squared piece of metal and 2 clamps ever since haha 06 Mini Cooper S Sundown, SoundQubed Cadence, XS Power 151s Sealed 155s Outlaw Windshield @ 37hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiKaZz74 Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Alright. I got everything there I think. Just gotta worry about the angled cuts. But it won't happen till summer if I redo it. My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 You don't NEED to use a table saw. All you really need for basic basic building is a skilsaw and a jigsaw ROUTER. That's all I have needed to use ^^^^fixed CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 I was waiting for someone to say something about moving the damn port, Ninja went there. OP, let's start with setting your amp gains correctly. Find a member on here who has a DD1 or an O scope that can help you out. You have to make sure it's being sent that clean signal. Which voicecoil configuration do you have on that sub? Moving on with the box... You have a backseat box, and sometimes(most times) they don't pressurize worth a poop. I didn't run any numbers because I I think there is a definite problem with your box placement and possibly design too. I don't know how much you can get out of a rear seat box on the meter to be honest. Do you use your back seat and that's the reason for needing a sub box that comes out? If not, I suggest removing the seat of you want to get the most out of your setup. A single 18" in the right box should have much more in it than a138, it really should. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiKaZz74 Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I was waiting for someone to say something about moving the damn port, Ninja went there. OP, let's start with setting your amp gains correctly. Find a member on here who has a DD1 or an O scope that can help you out. You have to make sure it's being sent that clean signal. Which voicecoil configuration do you have on that sub? Moving on with the box... You have a backseat box, and sometimes(most times) they don't pressurize worth a poop. I didn't run any numbers because I I think there is a definite problem with your box placement and possibly design too. I don't know how much you can get out of a rear seat box on the meter to be honest. Do you use your back seat and that's the reason for needing a sub box that comes out? If not, I suggest removing the seat of you want to get the most out of your setup. A single 18" in the right box should have much more in it than a138, it really should. There's honestly no one within a few hours of me that have one that are active. Maybe a local shop? But I have back seat in so my dad doesn't bitch and if needed I can pull sub and box out. SO it can only be so big cuz my seats don't unbolt so its a lot of awkward moving to get box in and out. I'm hoping there's something. Simple to do. What if I plugged a port? Raise tuning but only on meter. I'm just kinda lost right now without building a new box. That might happen in summer.Oh and d2 coils. My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweendog Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Are you sure you're bench doesn't unbolt? That wouldn't make much sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiKaZz74 Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 No back seats do. Front is one piece and I tried once. Torqued a bolt and broke it off trying to undo it. And daily driver so I need to know its together and working if I needed it. Not seats out bolt out. I really wish I could take them out tho My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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