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What are the height, width, and depth?

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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Okay so the port you have would be a "0" common wall port. That is unless you have it in one of the corners of the box.

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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if the port is an L (3common walls) you need to have the same width as the port opening after the bend....like this

Capture-3.jpg

if the port is in the center (2common walls) and longer than the box is deep you would split the port in 2 and it would be half the width going each way after the bends....like this

Tportallacross.jpg

http://www.stevemead...cherokee-build/

2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Alpine CDE-hd148bt

Alpine PKG-RSE2

PRV Audio (4) 6MB200 front/rear doors

PRV Audio (4) TW350Ti dash/rear doors

Kicker KX350.4

Obsidian Audio (1) 18 D4 v2

revamp (2) Stereo Integrity HT 18d2
DC Audio 1.2k
5.25ft^3 tuned @34hz

revamp Infinite Baffle Cpillar

AudioTechnix 60mil deadener
KnuKonceptz & SkyHigh wire (complete setup)

stroupe79.jpg

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if you haven't built a ported box before, odds are slot ported (L port) would be easier for you....I would go with something in this neighborhood

h26 x w44 x 26d

port and subs facing forward with double baffle and .75 thickness...you would need to brace it a bit inside...

port h24.5 x w6.5 x 28l

gives you 10.2cubes with tuning of 31hz and port area per foot of 15.62

that would be pretty nice to run 2 18s...you could have the subs/port facing up as long as you have room for the port to breath, but 26inches high in a backseat you might as well wall it and fire everything forward!

http://www.stevemead...cherokee-build/

2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Alpine CDE-hd148bt

Alpine PKG-RSE2

PRV Audio (4) 6MB200 front/rear doors

PRV Audio (4) TW350Ti dash/rear doors

Kicker KX350.4

Obsidian Audio (1) 18 D4 v2

revamp (2) Stereo Integrity HT 18d2
DC Audio 1.2k
5.25ft^3 tuned @34hz

revamp Infinite Baffle Cpillar

AudioTechnix 60mil deadener
KnuKonceptz & SkyHigh wire (complete setup)

stroupe79.jpg

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Unless I missed it, you never stated what brand/model of sub your trying to build this for? Or if you are planning on powering them at, below or above their rated rms? This will make a huge difference in your design. All the "general" box, port and tuning information already provided look to be inline with all my reasearch, but the specific sub/s and power you decide on will effect your general design making it necessary to be fine tuned to what "your" sub/s actually like.

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if you haven't built a ported box before, odds are slot ported (L port) would be easier for you....I would go with something in this neighborhood

h26 x w44 x 26d

port and subs facing forward with double baffle and .75 thickness...you would need to brace it a bit inside...

port h24.5 x w6.5 x 28l

gives you 10.2cubes with tuning of 31hz and port area per foot of 15.62

that would be pretty nice to run 2 18s...you could have the subs/port facing up as long as you have room for the port to breath, but 26inches high in a backseat you might as well wall it and fire everything forward!

that sounds pretty decent. At 26" high i could still see out my rear window which is why i'm not walling it.

Unless I missed it, you never stated what brand/model of sub your trying to build this for? Or if you are planning on powering them at, below or above their rated rms? This will make a huge difference in your design. All the "general" box, port and tuning information already provided look to be inline with all my reasearch, but the specific sub/s and power you decide on will effect your general design making it necessary to be fine tuned to what "your" sub/s actually like.

the most like candidates are either Fi Btl's or some Sundown's.

Right now the plan is to run each sub on a t1500.

If you have any questions relating to nutrition, lifting, or health in general, feel free to give me a PM and I will give you straight forward advice with no BS involved.

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