SGT_76

It would simply be an addition to the basket/frame machining process. Since this is "just for fun" if you went high end and did a 3D axis machined billet frame, it would involve more milling program work. If casted, slightly different molding and a couple additional final machining steps.

Have you given any thought towards gusseting between the spokes for added strength? Maybe gusset the entire length, then machine your "CC C" logo in each? Frame strength would go up greatly...and look BA too. Just a thought.

Very nice sir, as always!

That sir is BA! Can only imagine what it'll do after you get the SMD's in...awesome!

I agree, I would definitely run your doors off an amp if you're planning on a ~4kw sub stage. Plus if you look around you'll see that you can get good 2/4ch amps for a fair price. Don't forget to take into account what you're doing with your door speakers when concidering a head unit and amp, as their are many options available. Are you going 2-way comp, 3-way comp, individual pro audio speakers, do you want to run active or passive, do you want to use your amp/a processor/or the head unit to control your equalization/sound stage? "Vitto" hit it on the head on the importance of proper sound deadening! If you don't know everything you need for doing the Big3 I'd suggest checking out http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/. They have complete kits and from my research, great customer service. I personally will be running Skyhigh wire. It's great wire, tru AWG, AWESOME customer service and a fantastic price point. I see a lot of builds on here with RF, Knu, Audio Technix and welding lead also. Any of these should serve you very well. Another thing to think about to save a little cash on your wiring is the use of CCA where you can. I am personally doubling up my front/back runs using (2 runs pos and neg) of 1/0 CCA, and using 1/0 OFC for my Big3 and all rear power runs to amps. I can do my CCA runs for 1/2 the price of OFC front to rear, and I still have a combined 500amp wire rating to feed my rear batt bank and amps. Just food for thought. As for your box, during your design stage please dont forget about how your going to properly secure the enclosure to your vehicle! Also, Torres was mentioned already for actual dimensional design and tuning. If you don't have it already, also look into Sketchup. Its a great program to model and fine tune your box in 3D. Lets you see exactly what the finished product will be before building so you can make changes if need be without wasting money on ruined materials. Also, it seems obvious but decide how you're going to wire your subs... bolts through box, terminal cups, wires from subs just ran through a hole in the side of the box then sealed? Just remember to think, research, plan...and then do it all over again lol, and you should be good.

My best advice would be to plan AND price everything for your entire build before you purchase anything. As was stated already, you will spend quite a bit more than you do on your subs, for everything else needed to complete your build correctly. Mine will end up being close to 6 times what I spent on my 18, just for everything else lol! Like I said it all adds up very quickly, especially the little things! Post up what you want out of your build and everything you "think" you need/should get to achieve your goal with your system. This board is full of helpfull people who are willing to help point you in the right direction. Also, spend some quality time not only searching for answers but also reading other members build logs and such. You'll be surprised at how much you'll learn, and how much you missed in your initial planning just by doing this lol! Best of luck!

2.0, 3.5 and 5K please, to 66725. Thank you.

Yeah their website says .08 but for some reason those i have gotten replies back from on here were using .1? So this is what i went with. Since i'll be using 4 subs the .02 difference per sub (if the .08 is indeed the correct figure) will actually lower my tuning by ~.5hz, which im fine with if it happens. I think your port area is still too small from what i've been told, and read here. A single 3" @ 23"s long gets you to 7.07in sq port area/11.84 port per foot/.60cu ft net/ tuned to 35.56hz. But take my advice with a grain of salt as im still learning as well. Have you posted in the sub/enclosure section?

Hello and welcome from a fellow "noob" lol. Couple things, don't forget to account for your displacements (.1 for woofer, and any bracing like your port brace). Also if im not mistaken you want your port area per foot to be up around (~9) for round ports, but I may be off a lil. I'm sure someone in the know will chime in though. Also search the sub/enclosure section and you should have no problem finding the answeres to your questions. Good luck on the build.

If they are going to be a lil over powered, should you stay on the small side of the suggested box size? Say between .5 and .6 per?