ThreehundredC Posted April 5, 2013 Report Posted April 5, 2013 so I had this amp and it had to go back under warranty just got it back today Hifonics zeus 2000.4 to run 2 selenium 8s ad 2 tweeters.for now but since i last had it i sold my double din and am back to stock i have one connection on the rear speaker for my sub amp ive had forever soi just tapped back in to that, My question is What is the part i need for RCAs a cheap connection box wire tap type thing,, i know a new radio would sound better but not using one
ThreehundredC Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Posted April 5, 2013 i have the harnesses that unplugs from the stock amp and like bypasses the amp then has bare speaker wire at the other end
Tarball Posted April 5, 2013 Report Posted April 5, 2013 well, if you are tapping into it before a stock amp then you likely already have a low level signal. It could be crossed over though. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
ThreehundredC Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Posted April 5, 2013 i have the sub tapped in the rear speaker but now adding highs amp ,, i think its this i need.. Pac-Audio C2A-CHYbut its like 80 bucks almost a new cd player
ThreehundredC Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Posted April 6, 2013 any other options out there same radio as any chrysler jeep dodge car
ThreehundredC Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Posted April 7, 2013 What is the piece needed to run bass AND highs amp ?
Tarball Posted April 8, 2013 Report Posted April 8, 2013 You might be better off just getting a new deck unless you have a really nice factory deck that you dont want to part with. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
ThreehundredC Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Posted April 8, 2013 i had the double din in there and everything ran good right to the radio but i sold it and put this back in hoping a 40 -50 fix could get my other amp running the shop hooked up the bass to it no problem bu that was like 5 years ago still works fine
Herrie_V Posted April 8, 2013 Report Posted April 8, 2013 http://www.autosoundcentral.com/PAC_AOEM_CHR3_p/aoemchr3.htm
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