Fi Q10, Hornresp, D.A.T.S, vs. Me :)

[onebadmonte]

How to start this off?????

Well, I got this way cool Fi Car Audio 10" Q. Here are some pics of how it arrived to me.

Waiting at the doorstep.



Opening up the box.



Out of the box and on to the driveway for some pics.



Side profile shot.



Get a load of that motor. O_o



A word from the people who made this possible.



The plan will be for a simple ported box with an aero-port. I'll input all the manufacturers parameters and box specs into Hornresp and see what it chugs out. To follow up, I'll use a Dayton Audio Test System (D.A.T.S.) formerly know as the Woofer Tester, to verify the impedance curve and box tuning.

If all goes well, I'll have a nice bumping system. Worst case, I get flamed to death on the interwebs. Stay tuned.

[TheBetterMethod]

Gotta love the Qs Continue!

[onebadmonte]

Alright, well, thanks to all who have commented so far. Not much happening just yet. I had to mow the lawn today. :/ Good thing, is that a cold front rolled in, so it was nice and cool outside.

Now the good stuff. I broke out with the old tape measure and took some measurements of available space. Scratched my head and stared aimlessly at the Hornresp Input Parameters screen. Then I came up with this:

Box volume 1.5cuft (42.47L). Port specs: 4" aero port (81.03cm^2), length 17" (43.18cm). Tuning: 33.62Hz

Hornresp Input Parameters screen.

SPL Response, 1w@1m, I think. Eeek! look at that peak. O_o

Impedance Curve. :/ Looks right to me.

Group Delay. I have no idea.

Here is a sketch I made of what I'm gonna build.

Excuse the mess, I'm left handed. That's it from me. Now your its your turn. Share your thoughts, suggestions, and predictions.

[onebadmonte]

Here are various shots of my box build.

I had been hearing many things about "Arauco" plywood so I decided to give it a shot. A bit shout out to the fellas at the Home Depot around the corner from my house. Those guys have always been cool about trimming the wood down to manageable sizes with their awesome panel saw.

The goods:

Another change up for me is using a nail gun instead of wood screws. This made it so much easier and quicker when being an army of one.

The box coming together:

Under this stack is the baffle being glued together. On a side note all that wood is for a project I said was going to be a quick one. Joke is on me, that wood has been sitting in the garage for a year. :\

Here is a shot of the baffle ready to go on the box.

I though I'd give the box edges a little round over.

Assembled box pics.

A little shot of the terminal cups I made up for the box.

Sub, meet box. Box, meet sub.

Woot, woot! Box finished.

This is officially my fastest box build. It took me a week of afternoons to pull this off. Hooray for me.

[onebadmonte]

Yay! Day off updates!

So here are some pics of the last iteration of the system in my little Olds. A.K.A. "The Creampuff"

What a mess.

And what was hiding behind the rear seat.

With everything out I positioned the box in place and decided on using an angle iron to secure the box to the car. I started off by installing some 1/4-20 rivenuts in the trunk floor.

Here is the angle iron bolted down.

Looking through the old baffle

I transferred the hole locations from the angle iron on to the box. I followed up by installing threaded wood insert into the box allowing me to bolt the box onto the angle iron with three 1/4-20 x 1" bolts. Here is some shots of the box bolted to the angle iron.

Lastly here is a pic of the final install.

The final system layout consist of:

Headunit: JVC KD-HDW10

Processor: JBL MS-8

Front Stage: PowerBass S-352 3-1/2" Co-Ax in stock location powered by MS-8 hi-passed at 200Hz 24dB/oct

Peerless OEM 8" powered by US Acoustics USB-4080 (bridged) band-passed 200Hz 24dB/oct & 80Hz 12dB/oct

Sub Stage: Fi Q 10 powered by Bazooka MGA11000H lo-passed at 80Hz 12dB/oct sub-sonic at 30Hz 24dB/oct

Test and impressions on the way.

[TylerParrish]

Can't wait to hear how you like the sub man.

[onebadmonte]

The new box sounds great, I like it. I did hook up the ol' DATS to the box in vehicle and this is what I got:

:/ From what I understand, an impedance curve like this represents a sealed box with a leak. Looks like I'm back to the drawing board looking for more port area to realize my theoretical 3dBs by going ported.

I'm bummed that my Hornresp predicted impedance curve didn't match up to my DATS measured impedance curve. Anybody got any thoughts regarding that? On a side note the modeled tuning nearly match the measured tuning.

I did give the new box a run on the SPL Labs LCD Bass Meter. This is what I got:

Not bad for a single ten under 1000watts in a trunk car, but if there is more to be had, I want it.