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Is 430 amps good enough?


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That amp is rated at 5,400 watts RMS into .75 Ohms. I NEVER recommend operating an amplifier below that which is specified by the manufacturer. Even if the amp can eek out a little bit more power, that will come at the expense of reliability in more ways than one.

This looks to be a Class D Design, so math is as follows:

5400 Watts Output / 75% efficiency = 7200 Watts Input

7200 Watts / 14.4 Volts = 500 Amps

500 x 50% Duty Cycle (music) = 250 Amps

You have more than enough alternator for music, even taking into consideration that each of your Group 34 Batteries will require between 7 and 10 Amps to keep a surface charge on them.

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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It takes power to make power. Why not just save some money and get another alternator and run at a half instead of a quarter? That's like welding status.. very crazy low.. but just my 2 cents.

The only way I could run at .5 is to buy 2 more subs and wire series/parallel or buy another amp and wire 1 amp parallel to each sub.

*Rebuid in progress*

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That amp is rated at 5,400 watts RMS into .75 Ohms. I NEVER recommend operating an amplifier below that which is specified by the manufacturer. Even if the amp can eek out a little bit more power, that will come at the expense of reliability in more ways than one.

This looks to be a Class D Design, so math is as follows:

5400 Watts Output / 75% efficiency = 7200 Watts Input

7200 Watts / 14.4 Volts = 500 Amps

500 x 50% Duty Cycle (music) = 250 Amps

You have more than enough alternator, even taking into consideration that each of your Group 34 Batteries will require between 7 and 10 Amps to keep a surface charge on them.

Well the car isn't my daily driver. I built it just for demos and to try to pull numbers with at shows. The last show I went to, I did a 154.5 with the stock alt and the stock battery that is half dead. I know that was stupid but I bought the car and installed everything in 4 days to get it to the competition. I never beat on it for more than 10 mins. at a time before i rest it for a little. That's why I was wondering if I could wire to .25, I figured with rise having 5 batts, I would have enough reserve to play it that low in short intervals. Trust me, I would love to have more electric but I'm broke due to buying this car and doing the build within the past 2 weeks lol. I was just wondering if I could play it for short periods at that low of an impedance and if not, what more would I need to be able to do so? I don't want to keep my amp wired that low. Just for a week or 2 until I can buy 2 more subs or a 2nd amp. I just need more power, but don't want to smoke my equipment lol... Story of my life.

*Rebuid in progress*

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Mathematically, about the same. See my sig for more on that... Lol. But the real difference is how much power you will be seeing from each amp. Effeciency

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Mathematically, about the same. See my sig for more on that... Lol. But the real difference is how much power you will be seeing from each amp. Effeciency

Good point. I just need more power lol. Seems impossible, but my goal is a 160. I'm hoping I can do it with 4 18s.. The good thing is, I bought this car as a toy to do just my stereo in. So I'll rip the whole thing apart if I have to just to do a 60 lol.. Big hopes, might never happen. But, It's something to shoot for.

Edit: If that's the best way, I'll definately try getting another D9. I don't really want to stray away from this amp. I know the company has a bad reputation but I hear nothing but good things about the D9 and I've never had a problem with it.

*Rebuid in progress*

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Hey guys, you think the engine in my Olds' will be OK if I spin it to 8,500 RPM JUST for a second?

Probably not, but I figured I would be ok with plenty of battery reserve. I don't know much about electrical, which is why I asked. But I assumed I would be ok with plenty of batteries, if I'm wrong then I don't mind being corrected.

*Rebuid in progress*

LrzV2Vk.jpg

VbjgkeI.jpg

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