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Homemade Super-Neo Woofer: THE CHEVELLE RESTORATION IS DONE, dampener recommendations??


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Posted

Cut the wood into 4-6 pieces like a puzzle? This way they could be tilted and slid out? Just another idea, keep on keeping on man, we are all drooling.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

Posted

Super quick crappy drawing of what people are talking about. Use probably 1" or thicker wood or appropriate thickness aluminum and 4 all threads to lower top plate down. Figure out a way to secure the bottom plate from jumping and you'll simply turn the all thread to lower the top plate into place. With 4 all threads everything will be lined up and easy peasy.

lol I notice one thing only that poses an issue, I missed it my first few idea-rounds too. How am I going to get that bottom wood off after the top plate is down?

From the drawing I assume it will hold down the bottom by having holes in wood to slide over the magnets???? If not then I guess its not a problem

Bolt it down like the top if you have holes on the bottom plate, or maybe 2 pieces that come together and you screw those together with some additional pieces. :ughdunno: I'm just trying to help ya out. LOL

lol no no no no, I'm not mad at all bro hahahah. And by holes, I meant the wood on the bottom, it would have holes cut out of it so that it could go over the magnet poles right? But if it did, then it would not be able to come off once the top plate was on.

How about this? Bring the 2 together as the arrows represent, then take the other 2 boards and screw them down to hold it together. Or make one bigger support square that clears the top and bottom plate assembly but will give you more strength on the 2 halfs. When assembled simply disassemble and lift it off and around the finished motor structure.

002.jpg

I constantly have ideas in my head but suck at drawing them out for someone to get it. I usually end up building what I'm talking about out of cardboard, masonite, or something and then transfer it to the final material.

2001 Toyota Solara (Daily driver small system)

Mechman 240A (140A Idle)

Main battery - Exide AGM Group 34

Audio battery - Kinetik HC800

Head Unit - Samsung Galaxy Tab 2

Storage - Seagate Wireless Plus 1TB HD

Processor - Audio Control Three.2

Distribution - PowerAmper Power Meter (Old school cool)

Mid/High Amp - JL 300/4

Front Stage - JL xr650-csi

Rear Stage - JL xr650-cx

Sub Amp - JL 500/1

Subs - 2 x Hifonics HFX12D4

PowerAmper Power Meter, amps, battery all mounted on custom "strut tower" bar.

floating%20amp%20rack%20sm.jpg

Posted

got an idea :)

Build first drawing with wood

For bottom wood plate, cut hole in it same size as bottom plate so bottom plate can slide through. Inside the hole place L shaped pieces of steel (will need as many as you can use and as large as you can use) upside down and screw them to the wood. Bottom face of L will sit on top of bottom plate to hold it and to remove them you'll just have to drill the wood or something when done.

thingdealie.png

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

Posted

Cut the wood into 4-6 pieces like a puzzle? This way they could be tilted and slid out? Just another idea, keep on keeping on man, we are all drooling.

tried that with my first idea, doesnt work very well at all, the wood pieces that go between the poles are so short they can even hold onto anything.

Biomedical/Behavioral Science Major, The (Self-Proclaimed) Undisputed-Homemade-Woofer-King

Super-Neodymium-Woofer Build Log: The D4BA-V.2 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169236-diy-super-neodymium-woofer-build-log/?p=2475620

Fucking love Alan you goddamned fucking super nerd lol

When Alan uses big words I don't understand

It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out.

Everytime I see a guy driving a mini cooper I cant help but think he loves cock & (2/29/16)-My wife just bitched at me about throwing out things we don't really use. My response of well we don't really use your vagina so should we throw that out was evidently not the right response. I had to leave the room.

I missed Alan.

RIP 5/29/15 - I love you son.

Posted

got an idea :)

Build first drawing with wood

For bottom wood plate, cut hole in it same size as bottom plate so bottom plate can slide through. Inside the hole place L shaped pieces of steel (will need as many as you can use and as large as you can use) upside down and screw them to the wood. Bottom face of L will sit on top of bottom plate to hold it and to remove them you'll just have to drill the wood or something when done.

thingdealie.png

this.

Biomedical/Behavioral Science Major, The (Self-Proclaimed) Undisputed-Homemade-Woofer-King

Super-Neodymium-Woofer Build Log: The D4BA-V.2 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169236-diy-super-neodymium-woofer-build-log/?p=2475620

Fucking love Alan you goddamned fucking super nerd lol

When Alan uses big words I don't understand

It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out.

Everytime I see a guy driving a mini cooper I cant help but think he loves cock & (2/29/16)-My wife just bitched at me about throwing out things we don't really use. My response of well we don't really use your vagina so should we throw that out was evidently not the right response. I had to leave the room.

I missed Alan.

RIP 5/29/15 - I love you son.

Posted

got an idea :)

Build first drawing with wood

For bottom wood plate, cut hole in it same size as bottom plate so bottom plate can slide through. Inside the hole place L shaped pieces of steel (will need as many as you can use and as large as you can use) upside down and screw them to the wood. Bottom face of L will sit on top of bottom plate to hold it and to remove them you'll just have to drill the wood or something when done.

thingdealie.png

this.

Exactly LOL, only problem I see with this is the steel will probably need to be at least 1/4" to not bend or break. Also won't they be magnetized to the motor and very difficult to remove?

2001 Toyota Solara (Daily driver small system)

Mechman 240A (140A Idle)

Main battery - Exide AGM Group 34

Audio battery - Kinetik HC800

Head Unit - Samsung Galaxy Tab 2

Storage - Seagate Wireless Plus 1TB HD

Processor - Audio Control Three.2

Distribution - PowerAmper Power Meter (Old school cool)

Mid/High Amp - JL 300/4

Front Stage - JL xr650-csi

Rear Stage - JL xr650-cx

Sub Amp - JL 500/1

Subs - 2 x Hifonics HFX12D4

PowerAmper Power Meter, amps, battery all mounted on custom "strut tower" bar.

floating%20amp%20rack%20sm.jpg

Posted

got an idea :)

Build first drawing with wood

For bottom wood plate, cut hole in it same size as bottom plate so bottom plate can slide through. Inside the hole place L shaped pieces of steel (will need as many as you can use and as large as you can use) upside down and screw them to the wood. Bottom face of L will sit on top of bottom plate to hold it and to remove them you'll just have to drill the wood or something when done.

thingdealie.png

What program did you use to draw this? LOL

2001 Toyota Solara (Daily driver small system)

Mechman 240A (140A Idle)

Main battery - Exide AGM Group 34

Audio battery - Kinetik HC800

Head Unit - Samsung Galaxy Tab 2

Storage - Seagate Wireless Plus 1TB HD

Processor - Audio Control Three.2

Distribution - PowerAmper Power Meter (Old school cool)

Mid/High Amp - JL 300/4

Front Stage - JL xr650-csi

Rear Stage - JL xr650-cx

Sub Amp - JL 500/1

Subs - 2 x Hifonics HFX12D4

PowerAmper Power Meter, amps, battery all mounted on custom "strut tower" bar.

floating%20amp%20rack%20sm.jpg

Posted

got an idea :)

Build first drawing with wood

For bottom wood plate, cut hole in it same size as bottom plate so bottom plate can slide through. Inside the hole place L shaped pieces of steel (will need as many as you can use and as large as you can use) upside down and screw them to the wood. Bottom face of L will sit on top of bottom plate to hold it and to remove them you'll just have to drill the wood or something when done.

this.

Exactly LOL, only problem I see with this is the steel will probably need to be at least 1/4" to not bend or break. Also won't they be magnetized to the motor and very difficult to remove?

I can just use aluminum probably, they have a bunch of L bars at home depot.

Biomedical/Behavioral Science Major, The (Self-Proclaimed) Undisputed-Homemade-Woofer-King

Super-Neodymium-Woofer Build Log: The D4BA-V.2 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169236-diy-super-neodymium-woofer-build-log/?p=2475620

Fucking love Alan you goddamned fucking super nerd lol

When Alan uses big words I don't understand

It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out.

Everytime I see a guy driving a mini cooper I cant help but think he loves cock & (2/29/16)-My wife just bitched at me about throwing out things we don't really use. My response of well we don't really use your vagina so should we throw that out was evidently not the right response. I had to leave the room.

I missed Alan.

RIP 5/29/15 - I love you son.

Posted

Those HD L bars are more then likely not going to have enough strength IMO.

Aluminum would have to be really thick to not bend, I've personally bent 1/4" by hand and you have way more strength in this motor then that to go thicker is going to get expensive. How about two boards half cut like the brown "board" and one top piece in black cut to the same outer dimensions of the 2 halfs and the inner diameter be slightly bigger then the motor kinda of like a flush speaker ring. Black would unscrew from brown and lift off, brown would pull apart to come out.

004_zps4b773633.jpg

2001 Toyota Solara (Daily driver small system)

Mechman 240A (140A Idle)

Main battery - Exide AGM Group 34

Audio battery - Kinetik HC800

Head Unit - Samsung Galaxy Tab 2

Storage - Seagate Wireless Plus 1TB HD

Processor - Audio Control Three.2

Distribution - PowerAmper Power Meter (Old school cool)

Mid/High Amp - JL 300/4

Front Stage - JL xr650-csi

Rear Stage - JL xr650-cx

Sub Amp - JL 500/1

Subs - 2 x Hifonics HFX12D4

PowerAmper Power Meter, amps, battery all mounted on custom "strut tower" bar.

floating%20amp%20rack%20sm.jpg

Posted

im just gonna go for it, enough pussyfooting around it. I gotta get this thing done, balls to the wall time.

Biomedical/Behavioral Science Major, The (Self-Proclaimed) Undisputed-Homemade-Woofer-King

Super-Neodymium-Woofer Build Log: The D4BA-V.2 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169236-diy-super-neodymium-woofer-build-log/?p=2475620

Fucking love Alan you goddamned fucking super nerd lol

When Alan uses big words I don't understand

It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out.

Everytime I see a guy driving a mini cooper I cant help but think he loves cock & (2/29/16)-My wife just bitched at me about throwing out things we don't really use. My response of well we don't really use your vagina so should we throw that out was evidently not the right response. I had to leave the room.

I missed Alan.

RIP 5/29/15 - I love you son.

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