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My mom has two 10" RF Punch subs being powered by a 1500W Clarion amp. The reason why, is because my brother died in '07, we kept his truck along with the Clarion amp but gave the two Kicker 15s to my uncle. And had the local stereo store build a custom box to fit underneath the back seats using the amp and bought new subs.

Right now, my mom has finally brought up the courage (Sentimental value) to sell the truck and buy a more fuel-efficient vehicle. And I get the equipment. But I am unable to test out the true potential of the subs without having them short out. So would I need to just sell the amp and find another one. Or would there be a way around it?

Any help would be appreciated.

FF8BgH6.png

1993 Toyota Tercel

Two DC Audio Lvl 2 12's
DC 1.2k

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My mom has two 10" RF Punch subs being powered by a 1500W Clarion amp. The reason why, is because my brother died in '07, we kept his truck along with the Clarion amp but gave the two Kicker 15s to my uncle. And had the local stereo store build a custom box to fit underneath the back seats using the amp and bought new subs.

Right now, my mom has finally brought up the courage (Sentimental value) to sell the truck and buy a more fuel-efficient vehicle. And I get the equipment. But I am unable to test out the true potential of the subs without having them short out. So would I need to just sell the amp and find another one. Or would there be a way around it?

Any help would be appreciated.

its a pretty vague question... what do you know about the subs? impedance? recommended rms wattage?

there may be no need to get rid of any of it. the max power rating means nothing. I've learned that recently. so what is the model number of the amp?

your question is quite vague.

oh and sry about your bro :(

<img src=http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w610/beastly666bassboy/IMG_9611192581855_zps9b9b76be.jpg border=0 alt= height="75" width="800">

Growing old is necessary... growing up is an option! Have fun or you might as well fall into a 6 foot deep hole. Its much easier to be smart and act stupid then it is to be stupid and act smart! You're only limited by your imagination! Stop limiting yourself! Optima yellow top6 guage cableJVC KD S36 headunitPower acoustik 1600w 750w rms @2 ohmsTwo MTX thunder 7000 10"sSealed box @4.04 ft^3Mojo Mat in the trunk Coming soon:1/0 awg cablebig 3... in 6 gauge(till i can get the money for 0)planet audio Crossover.2- 3.5's for the front.2- 6.5's for the doors2- 6x9's for the rear3- MB Quartz amps to power it all.1- 6" aeroport...soon! <p>My Log!

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Quite vague? Here, I'll try better.

I have an amp rated at 1500 watts RMS powering two 10" subs rated at somewhere around 300watts RMS. If you turn up the volume and "Bass Booster" too loud, the subs and HU will short out. By short out I mean stop playing then start up again.

My question is, before moving the equipment to my car, do I need to sell the amp to get a new one rated at less power, or is there something I can do to keep it from shorting out.

FF8BgH6.png

1993 Toyota Tercel

Two DC Audio Lvl 2 12's
DC 1.2k

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nothing should turn off, but you should smell something from thoes subs

what is turning off, when you turn it up, and dont turn up the bass boost, and if you can when you get it reinstalled get the gain set with a dd1 or o'scope

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Don't use any bass boost please.

Really depends on your ohm load what amp you should go with.

For a 1 ohm final load. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34763_Rockford-Fosgate-R750-1D.html

For a 2 ohm final load. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Alpine-MRP-M500-In-Car-Audio-Stereo-Amplifier-500-Watts-/171066635549?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item27d45db51d

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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