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(((Ahh thats the issue. Glue by itself is not quite enough. Even brad nails are better that nothing. But you want something to help hold it. Another option when you cant use screws is those little wood dials that you drill for and insert. That at least gives some support. But if it were me I'd add some steel ;))))

>>>actually if u properly clamp glued a boxed together it will be much much stronger than nails or screws. my buddy dave built a box for my friend and he did not use a single nail or screws, ill tell u what 3 years later and still 5k and still the same as the first they he got it. actually he builds all his boxes this way and ships them all over the US and not one problem he ever had of it coming apart, just glue and proper techniques.<<<

^^^^

Finally some one said it, PROPER glue joint is better then screws or nails or mechanical fasteners..

except some of you guys that do huge steel plates...nothing bettr then that lol.

Wicks I think your on the right track in your build log. Fixing shit is much harder then doing it right the first time...next time I bet you do a nice dado, or dowels or something lol.

Yep, I do agree, a solid glue joint should be much stronger than screws.

Mine should have been pretty solid but maybe I didn't coat that connection point with enough glue.

It could also be that the angle of my baffle contributed to the joint braking loose over time... :shrug:

Ohhhh yeah, next time I'll definitely be bracing the baffle with much more then a glue joint, that's for sure. :trippy:

I ended up adding some screws to my front baffle since I couldn't remove the baffle and completely redo the glue joint.

So the screws are there for some extra structural strength to hopefully help keep the baffle from moving.

Not ideal, but fixing stuff never is.

The added fiberglass at that joint should also help as well.

For those interested, check out my build log (in my signature) for the fixes I'm attempting.

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My dad used to own a custom cabinet shop and his favorite glue was titebond II he did not like the 3 at all. The only glue that he used and did better was a liquid urethane glue. Super expensive stuff. But titebond II is the way to go in this application.

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SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

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Wait so a solid glue joint Is better than glue and nails/screws?

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Wait so a solid glue joint Is better than glue and nails/screws?

Yes.

A good glue joint will beat out a glue joint and screws..especially how alot of people do it where they glue then use the screws to hold the pieces together.

I use to TA is woodshop..teacher showed his class every year how the different joints would break under stress. A proper glue joint will hold stronger then the wood itself. If you do dado, rabbit, dovetail or een dowels you will be stronger then a standard butt joint or screws could ever get you.

At least if you are gluing long grain together. If you are doing endgrain you need to do a different joint then just a butt joint...even on MDF.

take some scrap wood and try it for yourself..

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