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Sundown Audio

Amp Tuning


JakeSmith

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Posted

If you had 5v pre out on your headunit then you could USE A DD1 to set your gains but it would have your gains lower because of your better headunit, allowing it to sound cleaner then if you had a cheaper headunit with higher gains...

More power also needs electrical bro. Big 3 upgrade. OFC 1/0 wires, alternators, batteries. Other wise your not getting 14.4 volts to your amp power so it can't put out max power even if you gave it 5v pre out in the RCA's.

higher input voltage won't make anything sound "cleaner". Just because the gain is lower on the amp doesn't mean it's somehow more efficient. If I'm wrong I would dig someone to throw up some testing on this.

As you know the only thing it would change is the positioning of the amps gain.

2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX

(4) Sundown Audio X-8's

(2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's

(3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries

(1) Mechman 240

3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunk

TEAM NWSPL

Best termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:
151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 class

Best termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:
152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class
155db outlaw

Posted

hello i am kinda a newbe about some of this stuff. i have a soundqubed 1200.1 and a soundqubed hdc3 12 in a 2.5 cubic feet box tuned to 32hz. i can only turn the amp up half way before it starts to clip on the control remote. i know the sub can handle more. what causes clipping is it voltage drop or need higher rca voltage? i want my sub to get louder and at least push 1000rms to it. i would like to know what i should do to make it louder without blowing it with clipping and distortion. i am thinking about doing the big 3 i know that will kelp the voltage drop but will it help with the clipping?

Definitely do the big 3 before anything else. Watch voltage etc. Before you buy a line driver, figure out what volt pre-out your head unit is, might not need a line driver. Definitely need a DD-1 or O-scope as stated earlier. Seems like you are looking for a simple, free fix you can do right away but it doesn't work that way. Read through every post again and make sure you understand instead of reposting the same questions. What size Alt do you have? What kind of under hood battery do you have and how old is it? What size wire have you used? Is stuff fused? Sizing? brands? etc. Maybe not all of that matters but it might.....

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

Posted

everything is new amp sub wires the truck is 2 months old. and the voltage drop is only 13.8 at the lowest. i wounder if its my box just not the right size or hz's and the radio rca voltage is 2v. i got 4 gauge running to the amp getting 0 gauge.

Posted

What do you mean you"have 4g running to the amp getting 0g"? Does the amp have 0g terminals? Either way you need to be running the biggest wire possible, my current PPI amp has 4g inputs but I have 2/0g crammed into a 1/0g reducer that is stuck in the 4g amp connects but I also plan on upgrading amps sometime to need the 2/0g.

zr2usasig.jpg

Yeah, it's slower than your bowel movements.

Posted

i ordered 0 gauge wire so its on the way. so i can put in 0 gauge and take out the 4 gauge. and there have reducers that i just bought to so the 0 gauge can fit in the amp terminal

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