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what electrical upgrades will be required?


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Posted

With some assistance from a few people here ive decided to run 2 12'' Fi X series subs powered by a soundstream rub1.2500d amp. I know the big 3 will need to be done and possibly a second battery. i have a 2012 impala lt and i believe its a 150 amp stock alt. I would like to keep the stock alt if possible ( its a pain to get to ). so any suggestions on what to do to power the amp properly?

Posted

i'd go with the biggest batt you can up front, and something along the lines of a single D3100 in the back

'93 Firebird Formula V8

H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395

Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4

Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0

G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator

www.youtube.com/TRTC360

Posted

as long as youre at 1ohm, youll be just fine with two beefy batts. more never hurts but youd be fine.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

Posted

Yea its going to be at 1 ohm. What batts ya recommend? That arent gonna completely bankrupt me lol

whatever you do - please dont go for Optima yellow tops.....they dont make em like they used to

I know it's an expensive proposition, but I highly recommend Kinetik batteries. Use the stock battery up front and isolate it from a rear battery (which youre gonna need if youre pushing that kinda power)

With 0 ga wiring + and ground (ground it both to your chassis and to the battery itself) and a Kinetik (at least a HC1800) you should be good.

I'm in the process of re-building my setup and before even doing Big-3 on a 120 amp Bosch (in an old Benz) I never had issues (like dimming) thanks to the Kinetik 1800 and a decent cap. Then again my car's old and the only thing really taking power is the stereo since I never have AC on and its diesel so there's no spark plugs

In your case if you have 2 batts, Big 3 and 0 gauge wiring (remember to have 150 amp fuse distrib block) then you should be set.

at least in my opinion.....I ordered the Kinetik online @ Walmart for about 300 bucks shipped to my door. It's a lot to spend but it's damn worth it.

2 FI 12s will slam in that car. Good luck.

1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D (5-speed)

Alpine Type-S Mids/Highs; Fli Audio Tweeters

Alpine CDE-143BT Bluetooth CD/USB/iPhone Headunit

Alpine MRP-F300.4

Audiopipe 1500.1 mono

Sundown Audio SA-15d2 (5.2 cu ft. ported box, tuned @ 35 hz)

Kintetik HC-1800 Watt Power Cell Battery

[KnuKonceptz 1 ga. Power Wiring

USACI outlaw - 143.9 db

Posted

Yea i know not to use optima lol, first thing my teacher taught us about batts haha. I havent had to use a second batt on a install ever. This is my first big install so wiring a second batt up is new to me. I have a kinetik i bought for a friend a while back n he never paid for it but its small as hell, more like a cap thana batt lol.

Posted

Yea its going to be at 1 ohm. What batts ya recommend? That arent gonna completely bankrupt me lol

whatever you do - please dont go for Optima yellow tops.....they dont make em like they used to

I know it's an expensive proposition, but I highly recommend Kinetik batteries. Use the stock battery up front and isolate it from a rear battery (which youre gonna need if youre pushing that kinda power)

With 0 ga wiring + and ground (ground it both to your chassis and to the battery itself) and a Kinetik (at least a HC1800) you should be good.

I'm in the process of re-building my setup and before even doing Big-3 on a 120 amp Bosch (in an old Benz) I never had issues (like dimming) thanks to the Kinetik 1800 and a decent cap.

at least in my opinion.....I ordered the Kinetik online @ Walmart for about 300 bucks shipped to my door. It's a lot to spend but it's damn worth it.

i'd much rather run optima then kinetik after all the horror stories i've seen/heard about. I'm currently running my DC3.5k at 1ohm on a g34 red top with a stock 180 amp alt, the lowest I drop at or around box tuning is mid to high 12's, now If I try to play higher bass like 45hz+ I instantly see high 10's lol, impedance rise is a real bitch at tuning.

'93 Firebird Formula V8

H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395

Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4

Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0

G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator

www.youtube.com/TRTC360

Posted

Yea i know not to use optima lol, first thing my teacher taught us about batts haha. I havent had to use a second batt on a install ever. This is my first big install so wiring a second batt up is new to me. I have a kinetik i bought for a friend a while back n he never paid for it but its small as hell, more like a cap thana batt lol.

nice. which model?

a battery -- from what i understand - will always be better than a cap

i still use a cap simply because i dont really have the heart to be lugging around a batt in my trunk; plus i like the digital volt meter it has on it......and i'm only pushing a 1000 RMS (2000w peak) sub so i dont exactly need loads and loads of current the way someone pushing over 2000+ RMS would.

healthy free flowing and consistent current is always a friend for good sound and good functioning equipment

1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D (5-speed)

Alpine Type-S Mids/Highs; Fli Audio Tweeters

Alpine CDE-143BT Bluetooth CD/USB/iPhone Headunit

Alpine MRP-F300.4

Audiopipe 1500.1 mono

Sundown Audio SA-15d2 (5.2 cu ft. ported box, tuned @ 35 hz)

Kintetik HC-1800 Watt Power Cell Battery

[KnuKonceptz 1 ga. Power Wiring

USACI outlaw - 143.9 db

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