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What would be the maximum amount of watts rms that I could push on 1 alternator? Your opinions?


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Posted

How many batteries? Is this for music or competition?

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Posted

Alternators are for charging, the batteries are your power source. Each kinetic 2400 is rated for- get this- 2400 watts.

So 6 kinetics will support 14,400 watts. (6 x 2400)

Posted

Wow dude...you're an idiot. The alt is your power source and the batteries are to hold an extra charge so you don't drain everything. You can't just straight up replace low amps with more batteries

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Posted

My main goal is to run a dc 7.5k or (if possible) a dc 9k at 1 ohm. Both of these amps usually recommend 2 aftermarket alts but I wanna see if it is possible to run 1 of these amps off 1 alt. I wanna use this for set up for both competition and daily use.

Posted

Alternators are for charging, the batteries are your power source. Each kinetic 2400 is rated for- get this- 2400 watts.

So 6 kinetics will support 14,400 watts. (6 x 2400)

I'd quit while your ahead, your about to get shit for your ridiculous comments.

Edit: Also, DC Kyle is the last person you want to argue with about alts. He's forgot more shit about them than you will ever learn. If he asks a question that's pertaining to his area of expertise, there's probably a good reason.

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Posted

By maximum amount op, do you mean before you see voltage drop, before you drop to below 12v, or before you start frying stuff?

Read some of Tony's post's he goes by Snafu on here. He is like Yoda when it comes to stuff like this. I don't know the EXACT way of going about it, but your car needs x percentage of the output your alternator makes leaving y amount for aftermarket stuff. There are a lot of variables. Are your amps regulated, how efficient are they, and lots of other stuff.

At 320A output, I would imagine you could spare anywhere from 200-250 A for aftermarket electrical. Some people go by a guideline of 10 watts per amp but although that ends up being close sometimes, it definitely isn't a formula you can take to the bank. If you do use that theory, you could probably support 2 - 2.5k without breaking a sweat as long as everything is wired up and working properly.

Yes people run more than (potentially) 2kw worth of amps with less than a 320A alt, but that doesn't mean they are getting full potential out of their set up.

Posted

Alternators are for charging, the batteries are your power source. Each kinetic 2400 is rated for- get this- 2400 watts.

So 6 kinetics will support 14,400 watts. (6 x 2400)

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this is going to end up as someone's sig.

Posted

I misspoke. I am just of the opinion that more batteries are better, and I would rather rely on a battery bank than the alternator. I understand the alt and batteries work in tandem, and without the alt your amplifiers will only see the resting voltage of the battery.

And no, 14,400 watts out of 6 kinetics isn't realistic. If resistance and inefficiency weren't factors, maybe.

I'm very sarcastic, and that doesn't translate well on the internet. I'm no idiot, even though I'm coming off that way.

Always learning, just messin' around here at SMD because I love car audio.

Happy car audio everybody!


Guest DC Power Kyle
Posted

It's really damn simple.... I've seen some companies do some weird things in vehicles that I shake my head on. If it's a hairpin, you can get more out of it because of it's design but I honestly doubt it is...

If you want a better answer of what you can run, the more information the better. People also forget that a typical "320 amp alternator" can only really do 220-230 hot if they're lucky and will be really lucky if it reaches the max output. I'm not bashing any companies, im just saying this in general. Different alternators from different OE manufactures handle heat better and have an overall better design. I'm running 6500 on a 270 amp alternator and that's already pushing it to the alternators maximum potential. No way you will be running 9k on a 320 amp alternator without running on batteries at some points in music unless you have a lot of box rise.

I don't know why and the hell people will sit here and give me shit for asking for pictures of an alternator so I can check out the internals and try to help. Sure, go to pep boys, get a damn 1100 watt MAXX Amplifier and you got your 1100 watts right? LOL

I bet you if you tore that amp apart it would be dwarfed by a sundown SAZ-1200D internals or even the Rockford Prime series.

Seriously guys this is getting OLD. There IS A DIFFERENCE IN ALTERNATORS JUST LIKE THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN AMPLIFIERS AND SUBWOOFERS. The only damn difference is that we can't directly show this without getting someone butt hurt because they don't understand the technology and it's "frowned" upon. Just because there is only a couple of items that go into an alternator doesn't mean that it's a good alternator and everyone has experienced this. It's extremely easy to build a GM alternator but really hard to build an import alternator correctly without having some kind of issue such as charge lights or idle output lies portrayed by the company because 99% of the people out there wont check to see what the alternator is actually doing. Hell, people still have issues with GM alternators but they are the easiest because of GM Truck Crank Pulleys.

So if anyone wants to question what I have to say fine, but nowhere on this damn forum will you see someone complain about our performance in what we sell and it's for a damn good reason.

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