Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Recommended Posts

Hi everybody, I am not a frequent user of this website but when I needed to ask about this problem, this is the first place I came.

A little overview: I have a 2001 Ford Focus stock. Stock battery under the hood, stock alt. (i think the alt. is 110 amp). I have zero gauge wiring all around. I have :
-2 15" Skar VVX

-Amp Powering them is a US Amps MD-2D Merlin.2 Series Mono Block Amp
-2 Sundown Neo Pro 8" Mids
-2 Audiopipe Super tweeters
-Amp powering the mids and tweeters is a Autotek 980 watt amp.
-Also have Pioneer Door Speakers on each of the doors

Here is my problem. I bought the Skar subs, amp, and the box from a friend. Everything worked fine, basically all brand new. I replaced the wiring in my car when I bought the new equipment. Ever since, I have had NO problems. A couple days ago I started experiencing my first problems. Randomly, I will hear the subs "Pop" a couple times, then go out. When they go out, sometimes it is only for a few seconds, sometimes i need to shut my radio off for roughly a minute then turn it back on to hear them again. I am not sure if this is due to a drop in voltage, a bad ground, etc. any info/help would be useful. I've read around and some people have said the sub would be bad, but i find it hard to believe both the subs would go bad at the exact same time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it could be several things and you just have to go through and check EVERYTHING lol.

look at the amp and see if the protect light comes on when the sound cuts out. (my guess on what's happening)

look at all your RCAs and see if one of them is loose.

check all power and ground connections. sometimes these work themselves loose if you didnt do a good enough job.

do the mids/highs keep playing?

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both subs don't need to go bad to cause a problem.

Have you checked to see if the amp is going into protect? I suspect it is since you said it takes a few minutes for it to start playing again but, you need to verify that. It could be that you have an intermittent short on a speaker cable, so I'd double check your wiring thoroughly.

Check all wiring, especially power and ground connections... if you don't find anything, check back in.

Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc

Instagram: audioanarchyllc

Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe

aaresizehorizontal_zps47821bb2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

checked all speaker connections, and power, ground, and remote connections. the amp DOES NOT go into protect mode, it just powers off completely (Which is very strange if you ask me).. tested the voltage as well, just to make sure the power and ground were correct and it read a steady 13.6/13.7 all the time. (which is normal)
Tested the voltage at the amp and at the wires (although that was one of the times the amp WAS working, so i guess that doesnt help much)
Im starting to think, there is something wrong with the amp? because i feel like it would go into protect mode if something was wrong with the power/ground...not completely shut off

Link to comment
Share on other sites

since the whole amp shuts off, it sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. what I would do is this. hook a volt meter to the positive and negative wires on the amp, if the volt meter looses power when the amp does, then you have a bad connection, If you constantly have power, it sounds like you could have a problem with your remote wire, RCA's, or your amp.

2007 Ford Focus SES Hatchback

Pioneer HU

4 Digital Designs 9515i's in a B pillar.

2 Soundstream XXX 15K's (running at 16 volts)

Soundstream Mids/Highs in custom door panels (getting rebuilt soon)

Soundstream TA2.160 and TA2.400

Sky High and KNU wiring

3 Banks of Maxwell caps 

Winston Lithium (not a fan)

Bump4Life 250 Amp Alt. aka USAlternators

Soundstream Focus and Avenger Build Log

Instagram @p4linnovation

YouTube: Team Blowin Loud 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does it only turn off when your at full tilt, max volume?

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could have an intermittent open in the turn on wire, which could be caused by that wire being pinched between a trim panel and the body or something similar.

If you have a DMM with alligator clips you can connect it to the turn on post at the amp (ground it to a known good ground) and set the min/max feature so that when you play the system it will record the voltage levels. If vibration or amp loads are causing a damaged turn on wire to open, that will prove it.

Other than that, it sounds to me like an internal problem with the amp.

Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc

Instagram: audioanarchyllc

Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe

aaresizehorizontal_zps47821bb2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could have an intermittent open in the turn on wire, which could be caused by that wire being pinched between a trim panel and the body or something similar.

If you have a DMM with alligator clips you can connect it to the turn on post at the amp (ground it to a known good ground) and set the min/max feature so that when you play the system it will record the voltage levels. If vibration or amp loads are causing a damaged turn on wire to open, that will prove it.

Other than that, it sounds to me like an internal problem with the amp.

i was gonna say its possibly the remote turn-on lead. glad somebody else said it though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i didnt really consider the remote turn on wire because i have the same remote wire hooked up to my other amp, and the other amp does not turn on or off at all, or even has a problem. im starting to think there may be a problem with the amp. i will re-check everything though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well yeah, if that wire is supplying two amps and you've verified that it's good between them then I'd definitely be looking at the amp.

Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc

Instagram: audioanarchyllc

Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe

aaresizehorizontal_zps47821bb2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...