1two3 Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 i changed my mind and desided that i can only do sub and ports back i played all day with the design possibilities and with a 4" port and rectangular box it is just not possible. its ever so close but just not wide enough, the port wont be far away enough from the inside walls. im gonna remeasure my trunk tomorow and see if i can maybe do a 45 around the wheel arches and maybe squeeze it in that way. i did however figure out that the chambers are gonna be 2.5 and 1.25 cubes with a total of 3.75-optimal being 4...thats close enough for me. also with that box volume i figured out a few options for tuning. i will list them in pairs below, the first being the main chamber of 2.5 cubes and the second the smaller chamber: 1) 25 and 35.4 2) 26 and 36.8 3) 27 and 38.2 4) 28 and 39.6 5) 29 and 41 6) 30 and 42.5 7) 31 and 43.8 32 and 45 ..... i looked at the thread with the songs and frequencies and saw that barley any songs get down to the low 30's let alone the high 20's any opinions on tuning frequencies? Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 also want to flush mount the ports Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 That's all well and good but, what was the tuning frequency of the optimal box volume you chose? That's your starting point with a dcbr and whatever it becomes when you split the cabinet in 2/3 & 1/3 portions with the same sized ports that were needed for the optimal alignment are what will work best for the driver(s) you're using. You can't reckon on what frequencies most music has. This design is a balance of tuning frequencies that are matched to the driver you select, which is why it is very important that you start with a good ported box for the speaker you're using and then build from there. But I understand your hesitance so if you've got some time to go to school on me, I bought MDF today and I'm gonna start building a dcbr for two Sundown Zv3s tomorrow. Hopefully, I'll have it finished enough to audition it by late in the day but for sure I'll have it in the truck and playing to the point that I can get a video by midweek. I'll start with a ported box that's a balance between optimal for the drivers and the space I have and will use the exact same methods I described here. If it doesn't work, you and the world will be witness to my failure. ;-) But if it does... get busy cutting up some wood. Deal? Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 DONE. Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 That's all well and good but, what was the tuning frequency of the optimal box volume you chose? That's your starting point with a dcbr and whatever it becomes when you split the cabinet in 2/3 & 1/3 portions with the same sized ports that were needed for the optimal alignment are what will work best for the driver(s) you're using. You can't reckon on what frequencies most music has. This design is a balance of tuning frequencies that are matched to the driver you select, which is why it is very important that you start with a good ported box for the speaker you're using and then build from there. But I understand your hesitance so if you've got some time to go to school on me, I bought MDF today and I'm gonna start building a dcbr for two Sundown Zv3s tomorrow. Hopefully, I'll have it finished enough to audition it by late in the day but for sure I'll have it in the truck and playing to the point that I can get a video by midweek. I'll start with a ported box that's a balance between optimal for the drivers and the space I have and will use the exact same methods I described here. If it doesn't work, you and the world will be witness to my failure. ;-) But if it does... get busy cutting up some wood. Deal? any updates? im anxious to see how it turned out Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Update is that I couldn't fit a dcbr for even one of my Zv3s in the space I have available. I really wanted to try one with one of those woofers because that's the only thing I haven't tested in my truck to date. And, I've got two of those going in the final build so t-line is the order of the day for my truck. That said, I could have made it work for an SA-15 I've got but I'm not interested in downsizing, so it wouldn't have been worth my time to build unless I already had it sold. Also, looking back at the specs on your SSA, I didn't figure enough port area for that driver in the box I modeled, so I'm glad you didn't build it. And like mine, the port area you would need for that driver would probably cause the box to become too large. As an example, for one Zv3 I would have had ~4.5ftⁿ of just port, on top of driver displacement, bracing and the 4 cubes of volume needed. I still intend to build one for a ten that's going in another truck but for the driver you have, I fear it will be space prohibitive. That said, you do have enough room for a t-line and ultimately, that's the best performing box you can put a speaker in. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Update is that I couldn't fit a dcbr for even one of my Zv3s in the space I have available. I really wanted to try one with one of those woofers because that's the only thing I haven't tested in my truck to date. And, I've got two of those going in the final build so t-line is the order of the day for my truck. That said, I could have made it work for an SA-15 I've got but I'm not interested in downsizing, so it wouldn't have been worth my time to build unless I already had it sold. Also, looking back at the specs on your SSA, I didn't figure enough port area for that driver in the box I modeled, so I'm glad you didn't build it. And like mine, the port area you would need for that driver would probably cause the box to become too large. As an example, for one Zv3 I would have had ~4.5ftⁿ of just port, on top of driver displacement, bracing and the 4 cubes of volume needed. I still intend to build one for a ten that's going in another truck but for the driver you have, I fear it will be space prohibitive. That said, you do have enough room for a t-line and ultimately, that's the best performing box you can put a speaker in. thats a bummer man, i was rootin for yah. i think someone tried to design me a t-line but with 45's in the corners but the box would just have to be too big for it to fit. one day ill do a t-line with a set of 10s or something. well that blows.... Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Update is that I couldn't fit a dcbr for even one of my Zv3s in the space I have available. I really wanted to try one with one of those woofers because that's the only thing I haven't tested in my truck to date. And, I've got two of those going in the final build so t-line is the order of the day for my truck. That said, I could have made it work for an SA-15 I've got but I'm not interested in downsizing, so it wouldn't have been worth my time to build unless I already had it sold. Also, looking back at the specs on your SSA, I didn't figure enough port area for that driver in the box I modeled, so I'm glad you didn't build it. And like mine, the port area you would need for that driver would probably cause the box to become too large. As an example, for one Zv3 I would have had ~4.5ftⁿ of just port, on top of driver displacement, bracing and the 4 cubes of volume needed. I still intend to build one for a ten that's going in another truck but for the driver you have, I fear it will be space prohibitive. That said, you do have enough room for a t-line and ultimately, that's the best performing box you can put a speaker in. thats a bummer man, i was rootin for yah. i think someone tried to design me a t-line but with 45's in the corners but the box would just have to be too big for it to fit. one day ill do a t-line with a set of 10s or something. well that blows.... It does indeed. And again, sorry for my misfiguring bit there. I'm just glad you didn't go and build the damn thing right off the bat because then I'd be having to buy a port noisy box from you. :-) Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 Good old ported is usually the best bang for your space and is overly simple to build, if you have a lot of space and don't want/can't upgrade power probably a tline, some hybrid vehicle owners have gone that way and it really makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldeneye4564 Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 Good old ported is usually the best bang for your space and is overly simple to build, if you have a lot of space and don't want/can't upgrade power probably a tline, some hybrid vehicle owners have gone that way and it really makes sense. joe where have you been all my life I RREEALLY ANGRY WIT U PHOTOBUCKET. HAD TO USE DROPBOX NOW HOLYYYYYY. Wanna ride bikes? Quote On 9/16/2017 at 3:28 AM, Jake Pace said: Oh i know how a 12v system works I did take 3 years of electronics in High school hands on and some in college and also worked on cars in college an always got A's to B's in each class. But oh well enough dealing with ppl who have probably not even lived as long as ive been into electronics! On 7/8/2013 at 4:01 AM, Banshee421 said: Do horns get low Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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