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I don't know anything about that head unit so unless someone else can chime in whose checked it, I would set the amp gain at 80% volume. For example, if the volume goes from 0-60, set it at 48. I would use a 40 Hz tone -5dB. You can go here to create and download the desired tone(s) at the desired level in lossless format. You can only create a 5 second long file, so I'd put it on repeat when setting gain.

As for the subs, being in a sealed box, they can handle the extra 100 watts from the amp with no problem and probably will need it unless your interest is only in bass reinforcement. Also, if you feel you must use the bass boost, set it before you set gain and don't set it to 12dB. Only use the 6dB setting and then only if you just simply cannot get clean sounding bass from the setup without it. An example of a legitimate use for bass boost would be a setup using head unit power, that you couldn't turn the volume up very much on.... that's where bass boost can be beneficial.

Although, one way to avoid using bass boost with a setup like I described is to set the amp gains at the loudest clean volume level instead of the full 80%. With mids/highs on HU power, that might be only 23-4 of 60 and if so, setting the amp at that level will remove the need for bass boost. But... if someone who doesn't know the settings (or ignores them) drives your car and cranks the volume past that set point, you risk clipping the amp pretty bad which means possible blown woofers/amp.

Thanks for the info man! Definitely helped. One last question. Do you have to "break in" subs or can I just start blasting away?

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I don't know anything about that head unit so unless someone else can chime in whose checked it, I would set the amp gain at 80% volume. For example, if the volume goes from 0-60, set it at 48. I would use a 40 Hz tone -5dB. You can go here to create and download the desired tone(s) at the desired level in lossless format. You can only create a 5 second long file, so I'd put it on repeat when setting gain.

As for the subs, being in a sealed box, they can handle the extra 100 watts from the amp with no problem and probably will need it unless your interest is only in bass reinforcement. Also, if you feel you must use the bass boost, set it before you set gain and don't set it to 12dB. Only use the 6dB setting and then only if you just simply cannot get clean sounding bass from the setup without it. An example of a legitimate use for bass boost would be a setup using head unit power, that you couldn't turn the volume up very much on.... that's where bass boost can be beneficial.

Although, one way to avoid using bass boost with a setup like I described is to set the amp gains at the loudest clean volume level instead of the full 80%. With mids/highs on HU power, that might be only 23-4 of 60 and if so, setting the amp at that level will remove the need for bass boost. But... if someone who doesn't know the settings (or ignores them) drives your car and cranks the volume past that set point, you risk clipping the amp pretty bad which means possible blown woofers/amp.

Thanks for the info man! Definitely helped. One last question. Do you have to "break in" subs or can I just start blasting away?

I go easy on new subs for the first 10-15 minutes just to make sure there isn't a clearly present manufacturing defect. But after that, I play em like I stole em, lol.

You will notice though, that by the time new subs have about 24 hours of play time on them, they'll sound a little better than they did brand new.

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I personally have broken all my subs in but it's up tobyou

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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