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Found 19 results

  1. Question for any person, I'm building a box for a friend. He has 2-JL Audio W7(not the AE) svc 3ohm subs with a Taramps 5000.1 mono but switching to a JL 1000 mono amplifier. He wants a sealed enclosure but he likes loud so I suggested a ported box. Doesn't want that, so I had mentioned having both types either going 4th order being sealed and ported or go with a 6th order. By experienced ppl out there, which type enclosure would be best for these 2 12W7's? The system is going in a 06' Buick Regal. Thank yall if any ideas on this
  2. Has anyone used BatteryShark.com before? They seem to be legit and the prices are phenomenal. Naturally, I wanted to see if anyone has dealt with them before I buy. One more question... What is the difference, if any, between the a standard AGM (such as a D3400) and a UPS high-rate discharge battery (NorthStar NSB-12-400)? Would the UPS be viable? Thanks in advance.
  3. My current system is an Alpine CDE (forgot the exact model number), Clarion EQS746, 2 Skar Audio VXI65 component sets, 2 Skar VVX 12's, an MB Quart 125.4, and a Skar 1500.1d. I have alrady set my gains with a DMM, but I have access to an oscilloscope at school, and plan on tuning my system with that sometime this week for better accuracy. My questions are: How do I find the clipping point of my head unit, and equalizer combo? I'm assuming I can use the procedure described in the DD-1 manual on how to find the head unit's clipping point through the amplifier. It basically says to play a test tone with the speakers disconnected, the gain turned all the way down, the probes hooked up to the positive and negative speaker outputs, and then it says to gradually increase the head unit volume until distortion is shown on the oscilloscope. I plan to do this procedure with the equalizer flattened out, and its volume and subwoofer levels turned all the way up, using a 1kHz -0dB track for my mids and highs amp, and a 40Hz -0dB track for my bass amp. Then I would keep the head unit at the average of those two numbers. Would this be a correct way for determining what volume my head unit and equalizer combo clips at? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  4. SO... I have been wondering about this for a while... Right now I've got a Kenwood KAC-8105d monoblock amplifier pushing my one JL 12w6v2. This amplifier pushes 300w Rms at 4 ohm and 500w Rms at 2 ohm. the sub can handle 600 watts Rms. Right now it is set to almost full blast and i feel it can be louder.. because its not that loud. The amp gets pretty warm I think its either because Its up too high or my sub is too much for it. Ive been wondering about upgrading. I wanna get a Kenwood KAC-9105d. It pushes 500w Rms at 4 ohm and 900w at 2 ohm. I know 900 is too much but I will have it tuned lower so It doesnt blow the sub and so its more then 500 Rms. Is this a good idea or??? is there any other amps out there that push around 600 rms at 2 ohm??? i can get the kenwood off SonicElectronix.com for $175. Thats a good deal!!! anyways.. any suggestions would be helpful. Here are specs for amp I want to get, sub and amp I have now; Amp I Want; http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22574_Kenwood-KAC-9105D.html Sub I Have; http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4010_JL-Audio-12W6v2-D4.html Amp I Have; http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22732_Kenwood-KAC-8105D.html
  5. Is the only place to order Obsidian subs from obsidianaudio.com? And is the only subs they have the one12, 15, and 18 or is there other subs they make and im just too retarded to find them? haha
  6. So just to state this is not a VS thread. I just want to know what the advantages or disadvantages of say running 2 12s that are 1k rms ea over say a single 12 at 2k rms or even a single 15 at 2k rms
  7. If I have a 1000 watt DVC 2 Ohm per coil sub, and I want to run it at 2 Ohms, so I just connect one coil, should I half the rms since I'm running 1 coil? I mean, is a 1000 watt rms DVC sub really 500 watts rms a coil?
  8. Was wondering if this peak in the middle was necessary in a wall like this. Have never done a port like this and might sound like a dumb question, but just wanted to know if it is needed or not.
  9. Hi guys, last week i´ve seen a wall looking like this: I´ve never seen this kind of box before. Anyone knows how this kind of box is working and how you can influence the tuning of the box?
  10. i have two shallow mount audiobahn 10's i am planning on getting. i plan to put them in a regular dual 10 ported box for my setup. will the fact that they are shallow mounts affect their performance in a regular box as apposed to a truck box? the cubic feet of the box after displacement is almost an exact match to what the site posts for these subs. im just wondering if i will loose sound from the fact of less excursion or if shallow mounts still have decent excursion. ive never owned any. a little help please?
  11. I don't know how this happened, but I had to replace my amp's power-wire-holding screws. I had an issue with the amp cutting off when it was turned up more than half volume. I assumed it was a wiring problem. I thought the only thing it could be was the crappy job I did in attaching the sub wires to the terminal cup in my box but I was wrong. I looked at all my amp's wiring to find that its power wire terminals had no screws holding the wire down. I mean they were COMPLETELY GONE, as if someone unscrewed them and put them elsewhere. I have never had a reason to unscrew them other than to hook up my voltage meter but I tightened them back. Would they have just unscrewed themselves from vibration? btw i have a Brutus 1200.d.
  12. where can i find some smd's that are available? and is there a resseller in canada? thanks
  13. When setting the gain on the amp do I turn the low pass filter/subsonic/ high pass filter/ etc all the way down before I start to set it? Or do I have the lpf/hpf/subsonic etc already set to where i want it and THEN set the gain? I'm confused because some tutorials say both. I know i have to have everything to 0 on the HU but I'm talking about the amp in case I was not clear.
  14. Just wondering, may be a dumb question. Even when no sound is coming out are the subs still supposed to be moving a little? Or completely still?
  15. What i want to do is put another battery in my trunk. I currently have 4awg wiring from my stock battery to my amp. would it be safe to use the 4awg wire to the new battery, then use 0awg wiring to my amp, then use 0awg ground wiring for everything? would this be safer and more efficient also?
  16. I have a question and I apologize if I posted this in the wrong section: If you have your amps set so that the speakers do not distort at max headunit volume and you add a DSP to the chain before the amps, do you have to reset the amp gains, or should they be lower? I dont want to be too low in noise floor or too high, I like tuning so that at max volume none of my speakers will distort even on the most absurdly compressed modern dance songs.
  17. Hey guys, I have a RF t1000-1bdcp. What subs, or sub, is best for this amp. Should i get like 2 12s or like 1 15 or even 1 18? The amp puts out 1515wrms @1ohm. What would hit harder? And what sub is best? Id really appreciate good feedback.
  18. Im new to car audio so excuse the noob question but when getting the voltage required for the gain ( V=sqrt (P*R) )should I use my amplifiers rms wattage or my subs rms wattage for power (P)? I ask this because my amp is rated for 500 watts rms and my subs are 400 watts rms, so I thought using the amps wattage might overpower the subs? I will be using a multimeter for setting the gain.
  19. Hey guys. Quick question. What effect, if any, does the location of a subwoofer on the baffle have in a car audio application? Since I've never been the best with explaining questions, I'll do a quick drawing. I am asking this for a ported enclosure particularly, but I'd love to hear about other enclosures as well. Port is not included in the drawing because I did not want to introduce another variable. l----------l is our baffle before subwoofer placement. Placement1= l-----x-----l Center Placement2= l----x------l Placement3= l---x-------l Placement4= l--x--------l Placement5= l-x---------l Placement6= lx----------l Far left I've skimmed through the Loudspeaker Cookbook, where Vance touches up on this, but I'm not sure if things are different when considering the smaller environment and higher power usage in car audio. I'd assume that the sub being closer to the outer wall would have some loading effect, but I do not know enough about loading to be certain. I hope that this question is clear and someone can help
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