Soccerballzs Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 I had a yellow top did not like it sits on garage floor now not even a year old. Replaced with XS Power-d3100 lot better power and output capabilities. Yellow Tops are over rated in my book just my opinion. Really no opinions on caps I run a 6 farad cap. When High Output Alternator gets here will be removing cap. (Mechman for alternator or Ohio Generator). Have issues getting power from stock 160 amp alternator. Maybe I will sell for cheap!!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/I Pioneer P99RSAmpere 38002-Ampere 125/44-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer 2-5.25 Satori Mids2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars2-Hertz Silk tweeters DC Audio Level 5/12 Skyhigh Wire Mechman 320 XS Power D3100MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/
CodyLucente Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Posted October 2, 2013 I will measure my draw next time i can which won't be for at least 2 week. I'm currently out of town Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
TeamHT Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 It's not that difficult dude. Tell us what make and model of your vehicle, and what amps you will be installing. From there we can safely estimate the current draw to see whether or not an upgraded alternator is even needed. Every vehicle is different, with different sized stock alternators, and can allow for different setups. Be specific so we can actually give clear and accurate answers. We literally have nothing to go off of besides you want to install a system Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?
CodyLucente Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Posted October 2, 2013 105amp alt Clarion 1410 40x4rmd Auditechnix 1200.1 at 2 ohms rms 11-1200 watts at 14.4v (I called them an asked) Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
CodyLucente Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Posted October 2, 2013 And I thought you guys meant the current draw of my vehicle before the stereo so I know how manny amps I have to play with Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
CodyLucente Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Posted October 2, 2013 40x4= 160 + 1100 = 1260 1260/ 12.6v = 100amps 1260/ 13.4v? = apx 94 amps 1260/ 14.4v = 87.5amps So I will be using about 94amps while running Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
truthsayer Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 cody, my truck had the stock105 amp alt also. That just dont cut it. with your power all yo need is a good xs batt. And a 240 amp alt here are some mechmans with their pricing. 240 amp G series unit 400 rpm turn on speed 140 amps @ 500 rpm Full output by 1800 rpm Pure copper rectifier 6 press fit 65 amp diodes $349 270 amp G series unit 400 rpm turn on speed 165 amps @ 500 rpm Full output by 1800 rpm Pure copper rectifier 6 press fit 65 amp diodes $449 370 amp 6 phase Elite series 300 rpm turn on speed 200 amps @ 500 rpm 250 amps @ 800 rpm 370 amps @ 1800 rpm Twin rectifier plates 12 press fit high amp diodes $749 truthsayer
TeamHT Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 How much of a budget do you have? I agree the 105 amp won't cut it, but I say put the yellow top under the hood and do the big 3. You might be able to getaway from upgrading the alt, but you will still drop down to battery power so get some good batteries. Or shop for a small but decent alt and run the yellowtop under the hood Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?
CodyLucente Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Posted October 2, 2013 I can but don't want to break the 200$ mark untill I have some more disposable income. (I buy and sell cars so I need money to buy a new car to flip). So what about an xs d975 for next 2-3mo untill I make more money to get alt? Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
TeamHT Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 My advice would be to grab the D1200 from Mechman. It's just a little over $200. Its like $225 you call them over the phone because they offer SMD members a 5% discount and free shipping. So it's like $213 shipped for a better battery. Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?
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