CodyLucente Posted September 30, 2013 Report Posted September 30, 2013 So I am about to do another build. Personal, and I have a normal battery under the hood an an optima yellow top in the trunk with a cap. I want to do this one perfect. Should I put the optima under my hood an buy some kinetics? Why? Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
mmets Posted September 30, 2013 Report Posted September 30, 2013 I personally would keep the batteries the same as much as possible. If they are too different one can drain the other. I am sure someone with more experience can help you with that or comment more. Also on a personal note I would go with XS power batteries over any other brand. This can be argued all day on brands but that's just my opinion. There is a test on youtube that had a few different batteries and why xs would be a better choice. Check it out though if your bored. http://youtu.be/Vez1NXufGo4 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177477-slowboring-07-trailblazer-build/Pioneer DEH-80PRSPRV 8MR400-NDY (eight) PRV TW350Ti (6)Sky High 1/0 OFC, 12 gauge and 8 gaugeTM Metalworkz battery terminals 120 sqft HushmatXS Power D3100 (6)Singer 350 Amp Alt Singer 320 (2)American Bass SQL3200 JL Audio JX360/4 Crossfire XS 8K (2) DC Audio XL 15s (6)
CodyLucente Posted September 30, 2013 Author Report Posted September 30, 2013 I seen all those videos, I just couldn't remember the name and this was the first brand name that came to mind Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
Kenyel Dotts Posted September 30, 2013 Report Posted September 30, 2013 I don't think the yellow top is for starting the vehicle I think its the red top. BUt any way if you are going to go with more bat's I would use x's but kinetic will doo. The reason why you should not use reg bat in the front and a deep cycle as a second, Is because the Reg bat in the car will charge off of the deep cycle bat and kill it after a while. this can be resolved by putting in a solenoid between bats. Please do not use capacitor as it will not help. just stick to the bats. What do you plan on using in your set up? King dingalingIts not finished till i say so Bit@^!
03 Xtreme Fosgate Posted October 1, 2013 Report Posted October 1, 2013 yellow top are for starting the vehicle,they're made for high electrical demand applications such as car audio. I used one for 5 years in my truck on a true 1500 watt setup charging with a 220 amp STINGER alternator.It's in a closet now resting at 12.46 volts and hasn't been charged in months. The red tops are more for drag racing,offroading,etc... Either run more YT's or change over to XS Power for batts,you could possibly run XS and the YT's together as they are the same types. Both are deep cycle AGM batts. Get a HO alt as well if you don't already have one. Caps do help if your electrical is strong and it's used correctly. BUILD LOG-http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179004-03-s10-xtreme-ext-cab-rf-build/ PHOTOBUCKET- http://s1354.beta.photobucket.com/user/03XtremeFosgate/library/truck%20audio%20rebuild
Kenyel Dotts Posted October 1, 2013 Report Posted October 1, 2013 what type of application are you talking about? Are we talking about supper capacitors? King dingalingIts not finished till i say so Bit@^!
Rich Schenk Posted October 1, 2013 Report Posted October 1, 2013 How big of a system are you going to run? Definitely get a HO alternator and do big 3 and a big xs batt in back On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded
Tarball Posted October 1, 2013 Report Posted October 1, 2013 If you are trying to do it right then START with a H.O. alternator form a reputable company...MECHMAN/DC POWER/SINGER and BIG 3 is 1/0 OFC and build from there out. Replace your batteries with all quality AGM. The size of your intended system will determine how many bats and how big of an alt you want to get CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
CodyLucente Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Posted October 1, 2013 I just bought an audiotechnix 1200.1 and my cap is 8ferrads also have a clarion 1410 amp for doors. Also I do have a solonoid between the 2 batts. I am going to run 2/0 wire. Big 3 will prob be with multiple runs of my 8 (it's what I have) All wire is solid coper not cca. As for the alternator I didn't want to install a second or upgrade because of $$$ unless I notice I need it Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
CodyLucente Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Posted October 1, 2013 I'm looking for cost effective. For example this is old welding cable. That's why. Was also trying to integrate the stock battery Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.