Trayten Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 For sure bro! I have another question that came up, very broad, but I'll do it anyway. How exactly should I know what size of a port to make? This is the first box I've ever made, so it's more of a learning experience than anything, and if it sounds good we'll keep it! But any info should probably help me out.. I've seen tons of boxes from the top view obviously with no piece on top, and some ports seem way longer than others and make a sort of L shape, while some just stick out from the front of the box and make an I shape and don't curve at all! Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrakes Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 For sure bro! I have another question that came up, very broad, but I'll do it anyway. How exactly should I know what size of a port to make? This is the first box I've ever made, so it's more of a learning experience than anything, and if it sounds good we'll keep it! But any info should probably help me out.. I've seen tons of boxes from the top view obviously with no piece on top, and some ports seem way longer than others and make a sort of L shape, while some just stick out from the front of the box and make an I shape and don't curve at all! If this is your first box I highly suggest using aero ports. Many will disagree with me, but they are user friendly, cheap on parts express, easy to install, and come with a formula where u plug in some numbers (ft^3 of box, what u want to tune to, and what size port u re using) and it tell u how long to cut ur PVC to. It's all inclusive and can sound great if you truliple check ur formula before u make ur cuts. I recommend dual 6" aero ports, that what I will be doing for my next build (single fi q 15" in a 4 cube box. Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trayten Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 For sure bro! I have another question that came up, very broad, but I'll do it anyway. How exactly should I know what size of a port to make? This is the first box I've ever made, so it's more of a learning experience than anything, and if it sounds good we'll keep it! But any info should probably help me out.. I've seen tons of boxes from the top view obviously with no piece on top, and some ports seem way longer than others and make a sort of L shape, while some just stick out from the front of the box and make an I shape and don't curve at all! If this is your first box I highly suggest using aero ports. Many will disagree with me, but they are user friendly, cheap on parts express, easy to install, and come with a formula where u plug in some numbers (ft^3 of box, what u want to tune to, and what size port u re using) and it tell u how long to cut ur PVC to. It's all inclusive and can sound great if you truliple check ur formula before u make ur cuts. I recommend dual 6" aero ports, that what I will be doing for my next build (single fi q 15" in a 4 cube box. I've just done a little research and you're right, they seem way friendlier. From what i've found though, a Slot ported box tuned right can sound a lot better than an aero port box. Any other inputs from anyone on slot vs aero ported boxes? Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrakes Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 For sure bro! I have another question that came up, very broad, but I'll do it anyway. How exactly should I know what size of a port to make? This is the first box I've ever made, so it's more of a learning experience than anything, and if it sounds good we'll keep it! But any info should probably help me out.. I've seen tons of boxes from the top view obviously with no piece on top, and some ports seem way longer than others and make a sort of L shape, while some just stick out from the front of the box and make an I shape and don't curve at all! If this is your first box I highly suggest using aero ports. Many will disagree with me, but they are user friendly, cheap on parts express, easy to install, and come with a formula where u plug in some numbers (ft^3 of box, what u want to tune to, and what size port u re using) and it tell u how long to cut ur PVC to. It's all inclusive and can sound great if you truliple check ur formula before u make ur cuts. I recommend dual 6" aero ports, that what I will be doing for my next build (single fi q 15" in a 4 cube box. I've just done a little research and you're right, they seem way friendlier. From what i've found though, a Slot ported box tuned right can sound a lot better than an aero port box. Any other inputs from anyone on slot vs aero ported boxes?You are correct, aero ports can cause much more noise (a whistling sound). From my experience this only happens if the PVC surface is uneven or if the joints where you glue the PVC pipe to the flared/rounded ends have any sort if gap in them. To reduce the risk of this, I only use PVC glue (used gorilla glue once and it turned out horrible), and you also have to keep constant pressure on both pieces you are gluing to made sure they don't separate at all. A very fine grit sandpaper will do you well inside the port once it is glued, and if there are ANY gaps you need to make sure you caulk the inside of the gap until it is even, and don't allow any overspill of caulk onto te smooth surface because it will cause unwanted bumps and grooves which can lead to.... Port noise! One thing we all don't want! I have built many boxes or myself and others, always use aero ports, I like the sound they produce, the look they give, and the ease I install. Saves me time, in turn saves others money! Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrakes Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Lol this is what I like, tons of information crammed in a couple posts so that I can put it all together and make the best sense out of it, thanks a lot guys! If anyone knows anything else, keep the answers coming, would be great! I'm going to actually make a list. If I have any questions regarding your posts, I'll quote you and reply back. I more or less just skim-read for now, kinda busy atm. as for tuning 12-17 inches per cubic foot is about the bare ends of the spectrum. i would suggest about 15 inches per cubic foot. as for tuning fq probably somewhere around 35hz. it gives you a good range of response This didn't make much sense to me, the 12-17 inches per cubic foot lost me. I got the bottom part, just that top part really stumped me! When you do a slot port, the ratio of port needed is directly related to the size box you are using. Basically, for every cubic foot of internal volume you have, you want 12-17 SQUARE inches of port. The reason it's "squared inches" is because this only takes into account the opening (basexheight) of your port. So if you have a box that is 4 cubes net, and you decide to give it 15^2 in of port, you would need 60 in^2 of port to properly give enough air flow in the box for your driver. A couple ways you could get this number is by doing a port that is 6 in wide by 10 inches high. Or 5 inches wide by 12 inches tall. The main deciding factor in this is how tall your box is. This calculation does not take into consideration how deep your port goes into the box. They way you figure this out is with a specific formula (that I don't know but hopefully others will chime in), and the depth of the port is how you control the tuning frequency of your box. I hope that helps. Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trayten Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Lol this is what I like, tons of information crammed in a couple posts so that I can put it all together and make the best sense out of it, thanks a lot guys! If anyone knows anything else, keep the answers coming, would be great! I'm going to actually make a list. If I have any questions regarding your posts, I'll quote you and reply back. I more or less just skim-read for now, kinda busy atm. as for tuning 12-17 inches per cubic foot is about the bare ends of the spectrum. i would suggest about 15 inches per cubic foot. as for tuning fq probably somewhere around 35hz. it gives you a good range of response This didn't make much sense to me, the 12-17 inches per cubic foot lost me. I got the bottom part, just that top part really stumped me! When you do a slot port, the ratio of port needed is directly related to the size box you are using. Basically, for every cubic foot of internal volume you have, you want 12-17 SQUARE inches of port. The reason it's "squared inches" is because this only takes into account the opening (basexheight) of your port. So if you have a box that is 4 cubes net, and you decide to give it 15^2 in of port, you would need 60 in^2 of port to properly give enough air flow in the box for your driver. A couple ways you could get this number is by doing a port that is 6 in wide by 10 inches high. Or 5 inches wide by 12 inches tall. The main deciding factor in this is how tall your box is. This calculation does not take into consideration how deep your port goes into the box. They way you figure this out is with a specific formula (that I don't know but hopefully others will chime in), and the depth of the port is how you control the tuning frequency of your box. I hope that helps. Yes sir that helps a lot, thank you! That's still a little over my head but i made some sense out of it and I'll take notes again later tonight. Me and my dad planned on building the box this weekend, so hopefully I get a better feel for ports etc over the next few days, then just try it out and see where we get I guess! Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2shuck Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 trayten I returned your message check it 2000 Toyota Camry With Sealed Off Trunk Sky High OFC Wiring DC Power 270 XP Alt AQ 2200 Sub Amp Two DC Level 4 m2 12s 80 Mil Murdetmat Gathering Parts For Wall Build. Team DC Audio 2014 Member Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Op If you deceid to strap amps In deed 2 ohm final not 1 As there only 2 ohm when strapped so you only on 900rms and not 1200 Myself idd do 3net on 3-3500rms but that's me As for the use of aero ports That will all come down to box design The min idd do is 3x 4" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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