Blue Chevy Man Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 the best way to go about this imo is to get rockford speakers, one alpine type r 10, and whatever brand 8 u can find that u like... not kicker though.. had 2 12s in a good sized box and now have 1 type r in a ~ 2.5 cube ported box tuned at 35 and it hits 3 times as hard as the kickers did... build a simple ported box for the trunk with enough room to mount a small box under the deck (using the top of the deck as the top of the box) then silicone where the wood and metal meet. then install 2 switches in ur dash to turn on and off the amps for the 8 and 10. when u listen rock turn the 8's amp on; when listening to something with rumbly bass turn the 8 off and the 10 on.... problem solved My Silverado build: http://www.stevemead...hevy-silverado/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xan326 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 the best way to go about this imo is to get rockford speakers, one alpine type r 10, and whatever brand 8 u can find that u like... not kicker though.. had 2 12s in a good sized box and now have 1 type r in a ~ 2.5 cube ported box tuned at 35 and it hits 3 times as hard as the kickers did... build a simple ported box for the trunk with enough room to mount a small box under the deck (using the top of the deck as the top of the box) then silicone where the wood and metal meet. then install 2 switches in ur dash to turn on and off the amps for the 8 and 10. when u listen rock turn the 8's amp on; when listening to something with rumbly bass turn the 8 off and the 10 on.... problem solved Some of my songs have both punchy and rumbly. I might just go with multiple 10s, they can punch and rumble apparently. I've never heard rockford speakers in person before. I think one of my friends has an alpine, but don't know what type. I was thinking of going with Crescendos for the speakers, I've heard that they're amazing especially at the low price they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass Teen Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 I agree with the second reply By a signal processor I am thinking you mean pre-amp output. These are as the name suggests just *signals* sent to the amp. The amp will receive these improved signals and amplifies them... I understand the crazy ideas you have.. When you are young you tend to be more creative in your mind. Id go for an 8 or 10 if it was my first setup too . Since its your first setup. I would recommend you use a signal processor for your mids and highs. On the other hand getting a class d monoblock amp will have a built in crossover. I really think you are anxious and cant blame you for that but honestly I don't think getting a signal processor for the bass (lows) would make a *huge* difference. You will need speaker wire, to run from your amp to your speakers. However, I have seen some crossovers that receives the signals from the amp and then pumps it out through terminals on the crossover itself. Some budget amps with quality I recommend are: Rockford fosgate prime series Hifonics brx series Even though I am a teenager I will do my best to help you if you have any questions surrounding your topic. I damaged alot of my subs from a critical user error i didn't realise but the guys here corrected me.....We don't want these things to happen to other people so we are here to help ......Pm me if you have questions ... PS: I be on in the night Car audio .......nuff said lol ... just jokingIm a teenager currently studying law but all i can think about is car audio.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Iceman Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 I keep forgetting to run measurements to see your actual box room. Sorry. If you have no box building experience a simple ported or sealed would work best. Crescendo is good. The speakers and amps are sweet I'll work on posting up a few ideas in a few min. And how far are you willing to go on electric upgrades? Cause thats where the money piles up My audio system HU - Kenwood KDC bt755HD Subs - Sundown SA 10 -2 Amplifier - CT Sounds 900.1 Car - 2013 scion TC "It matter's not what other's think about you as long as you are happy with who you are" "Great people didn't not sit around and wait for great thing's to come their way, they laced up their shoes, went out kicked some ass and made them happen" "Until you've taken a long walk in my size 11 you have no right to judge me" Musical interests: We came as romans, A Day To Remember, Three Days Grace, Disturbed, Story Of The Year, Atreyu, Breaking Benjamin, rise against, bullet for my valentine, red, skillet, Volbeat, alterbridge, creed, T.I., B.o.B, Eminem, T-pain, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xan326 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 I agree with the second reply By a signal processor I am thinking you mean pre-amp output. These are as the name suggests just *signals* sent to the amp. The amp will receive these improved signals and amplifies them... I understand the crazy ideas you have.. When you are young you tend to be more creative in your mind. Id go for an 8 or 10 if it was my first setup too . Since its your first setup. I would recommend you use a signal processor for your mids and highs. On the other hand getting a class d monoblock amp will have a built in crossover. I really think you are anxious and cant blame you for that but honestly I don't think getting a signal processor for the bass (lows) would make a *huge* difference. You will need speaker wire, to run from your amp to your speakers. However, I have seen some crossovers that receives the signals from the amp and then pumps it out through terminals on the crossover itself. Some budget amps with quality I recommend are: Rockford fosgate prime series Hifonics brx series Even though I am a teenager I will do my best to help you if you have any questions surrounding your topic. I damaged alot of my subs from a critical user error i didn't realise but the guys here corrected me.....We don't want these things to happen to other people so we are here to help ......Pm me if you have questions ... PS: I be on in the night I keep forgetting to run measurements to see your actual box room. Sorry. If you have no box building experience a simple ported or sealed would work best. Crescendo is good. The speakers and amps are sweet I'll work on posting up a few ideas in a few min. And how far are you willing to go on electric upgrades? Cause thats where the money piles up The signal processor I'm thinking about is the Kicker Front Row or whatever it's called, It'd work perfectly. On electrical, I'll go as far as I need to. I understand that I need a larger battery, possibly a second, new alternator, lots of wiring, and probably caps. I'm considering just taking out the speaker wire and just run rca through my head unit, or just new speaker wire. I don't know if the wire in my car is quality or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 with the measurements 16x28x48 you have around 6.5-7net to play with car type? so what do you have already? (and what do you want to keep from it?) what can your elec support? (do you have stock alt?) what do you want to achive? sq, spl %of both total budget? are you willing to deaden and upgrade elect if in budget? with what your listing you over complating it and turning cheap equipment into a 2k+ build and youll be no happier with the same stuff installed simpler for close to 1/4 of that price i see you listing h/u 2 signal processor 5 amps 2 tweeters 4 speakers 2 midbass 2 subs when all you need is h/u 2 amps 2 comps sets 2 subs and as far as small subs doing this and not that is so far from the truth the enclosure and sub type will determine that NOT the size Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xan326 Posted November 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 with the measurements 16x28x48 you have around 6.5-7net to play with car type? so what do you have already? (and what do you want to keep from it?) what can your elec support? (do you have stock alt?) what do you want to achive? sq, spl %of both total budget? are you willing to deaden and upgrade elect if in budget? with what your listing you over complating it and turning cheap equipment into a 2k+ build and youll be no happier with the same stuff installed simpler for close to 1/4 of that price i see you listing h/u 2 signal processor 5 amps 2 tweeters 4 speakers 2 midbass 2 subs when all you need is h/u 2 amps 2 comps sets 2 subs and as far as small subs doing this and not that is so far from the truth the enclosure and sub type will determine that NOT the size What I have so far that isn't stock is just the head unit and two kicker DS60s. I have all stock electrical that I know I'll be changing. I want sql, I want quality but I want it to be able to get loud. I don't really have a budget right now, If I don't have the money for like an amp or something I'll just wait till I get paid again, but don't go too crazy on prices. And I already know I'll be having to change the electrical system. I know I only need one signal processor, I found the kicker front row, it's 6 channels (3 channels + l/r). The amps will depend on my actual setup, I'll get to them later after I choose the speakers and subs. I was actually thinking of the crescendo PWXs. Subs I don't know yet. And the new alt I'll figure when I figure the amps, and someone told me that for every 100w or so you need about 16 amps on the alt. And is it true that if you have subs in the rear deck (it involves some cutting, but not cutting out the whole deck. about 10 inch subs fit perfectly) the sound of them is clearer and crisper? If it Is I could do that, install my keyless and security, and tint the back windows. I know a box on that would be strangely shaped, unless there's a sub that can do freeair just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 everything your asking contradicts itself spl and quality, then free air and a few other things? ditch the single processor ITS NOT NEEDED and for what your lookn at isn't required, (if going active yes) on stock elec most cars will take 12-15 on sub and 4-600 on speakers with only an upgraded batt or 2, start going much over and then that all changes looking at what your posting a dare say a true 1200rms sub stage will meet your exception's myself idd look at 80-100rms x4 for mids/high (this is 80% of of the speakers on the market) and 1200 on subs (this is a very common rms range for 2 subs at $2-300 each) loud on a budget idd look at something like (there on sale at the moment) and with elec, box under 2k mids/ high (gould even go the t1 and save $300 on the 2 sets) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44192_Rockford-Fosgate-T3652-S.html mids/high amp http://www.soundqubed.com/Q4-120_p_150.html subs x2 (you could even go the 15's if you want as you have the space) http://www.soundqubed.com/HDS312_p_227.html sub amp http://www.soundqubed.com/Q1-1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xan326 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 On the speakers I was thinking of Crescendos, they don't seem too expensive and I've heard they're amazing quality. Now if I do go with those, the tweeters are separate. Those speakers have a crossover, if I go with Crescendos I would need a separate crossover, unless I go with one of their few component sets. Now the loudness and quality thing, isn't it called sql? And on subs, a friend said that there might be some out there that can run on free air, but I'm not sure about that, it would help if I do somehow mount them in the deck. I've never even heard of Sound Qubed before, so I'll have to do some looking into them. I know I'll need a larger battery and alt, but I'll get to that after I get everything else. Amps, I'll figure those out once I get my speakers. I figured I can cut the 6.5" holes in my deck to hold 8"s, front doors I'd have to figure out what size I can put on a bracket up there. My car has 4"s but I've seen brackets go up to 6.5"s, I could possibly go bigger if I can fiberglass them. Subs is the same thing, I don't know what I'm getting yet so I don't know the amps. I need speakers and subs, then amps, then I'll figure the electrical. Hopefully not too much modding is needed. Oh and has anyone messed with the JBL shallow mount 13.5"? Since it's shallow, I could always put those in some spaces that others wouldn't fit. Maybe even make my own little stealthbox once I figure out how exactly to make one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 Man you have 6-7 cuft net to play with Why are u even looking at shallow mounts? If you want a IB setup (slimar to free are but not the same) look at Fi audio http://store.ficaraudio.com/ib3-series/ If your looking into an IB set you won't be needing an elect upgrade As you power will down to like 3-600rms per sub You could do 2x 15" IB (or 2-3 if any other size) in the space you have available on 1k But if you want spl with some sq thrown Do a ported box sub,port fwd sealed off Idd still stick with 12-1500rms to start with As for the speaker your looking at they are for an active setup, with the knowledge you have idd stick with a standard set of components Side not Stop lesioning to your friends advice They seem to leading you astray from you seem to looking for, Keep it simple And you can't fail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.