Rob Smith Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 I am running 3 Zapco amps: DC 1100.1 Powering DD 9512i DC 1000.4 Powering 3" Mids in dash and 1" tweeters on A Pillars DC 750.2 Powering 6.5 Mid Bass in doors Vehicle:2013 Dodge Journey - stock alt is 160 amp capable Goal: Healthy electrical for my amps to be driven hard all day long. Total Amp fusing is 280 amps. Total output is about 3000 watts according to the birth sheets for each amp, in reality, only the 1100.1 and sometimes the 750.2 are driven anywhere near their max output. The 1000.4 is powering some seriously sensitive speakers, so the gains are turned literally to the lowest setting so as not to over power the rest. I do lean on it pretty hard daily for about 2 hours. All are A/B amps, all stay pretty cool to the touch even after an hour or more of pounding just under clipping. Currently it is all running on the stock alt and battery and voltage floats in the mid 12s full tilt on music. When burping, it drops down to 12 volts exactly and stays there indefinitely while running the sine wave. I measured this at the + and - terminals on the amp itself using a DMM. Current setup is single 0 gauge from battery + to a distribution block, then 2 gauge to each amp. Each amp has 2 gauge ground to a distro block then to a 0 gauge ground (rear seat frame bolt, it's a good ground). I would really prefer to keep the voltage up around 13 or better and avoid swapping alternators (warranty issues on a life time warranty vehicle). Will two yellow tops (front/back), a 0 gauge power line, 0 gauge ground line, big 3, and 0 gauge chassis ground for the rear battery fix this?
Kyblack76 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 You want better than 13v, loaded, then go 14v. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
Bump4life Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 what is your starting resting voltage? before any load is applied? Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick
Rob Smith Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Posted October 31, 2013 what is your starting resting voltage? before any load is applied? Starting resting voltage running at idle is 13.8 on a warmed up engine.
rockFord_Expedition Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 No it wont fix it, but it may improve your situation. Adding additional 12v batteries will give you more reserve to play longer and it may help you stay in the mid 12's longer before dropping lower, but the only component keeping things above the resting voltage of the batteries is the alternator. Compare electrical to a race car, the alternator is the engine and the battery is the gas tank. Adding a larger, or extra gas tank will not allow you to go faster, only further. I would do the big 3 though, ASAP. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
Rob Smith Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Posted October 31, 2013 Cool thanks. I thought it would have an effect like that, just looking for confirmation. I'll get big 3 and pickup my batteries this weekend, if it at least lets it hold mid - high 12 on music, I guess that will have to be enough. I suspect the only reason it even holds at 12 flat is the way dodge does the PCM controlled alt and the stock "big 3" is 1 gauge already and dodge actually grounded to good points stock:P
Kyblack76 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 Now your thinkin..... Nice.... welcome to the forum...... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
Rob Smith Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Posted October 31, 2013 Went and bought a bunch of 1/0 ring terminals, 20 ft of good 1/0 OFC, and a Stinger SPP925 today. Stinger SP1000 will eventually find a spot in the front of the car to replace the starter battery. Update: All installed, will go clamp it later and see what the voltage drop is now. Can't wait.
Rob Smith Posted November 1, 2013 Author Report Posted November 1, 2013 Just got back from testing... voltage drops to 12.8-12.9 on music with long deep notes. Headlights do not dim in the slightest anymore. test tone resulted in a drop to 12.6. No load voltage was checked at 13.54. Not terribly bad results for a relatively small battery. Amp output was 73 vac using a 44hz test tone. This is fairly close to the woofers peak (33) resistance as well as the box's tuning point (37ish). It also happens to be the resonance peak of my vehicle where bass is loudest. All that peak adds up to a whopping load of 14.3 ohms for the amp to push through. Doing the math, that puts the amp at ~375 watts @ 14.3 ohms... lol, doesn't sound like much, but apply escalating power to the amp as load reduces and by my math it puts the Zapco DC 1100.1 at right around ~1380 watts into 2 ohms (D4 sub in parallel). This was power that was applied and held, not a quick burp, but held for around 30 seconds. Zapco... underrated? Who woulda thought lulz.
rockFord_Expedition Posted November 1, 2013 Report Posted November 1, 2013 Great work man. You should post pics of your work Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
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