Kade Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I bought a pair of RF Punch 6x9s for my 2009 Dodge Caliber. The current model has these little tabs that poke out by the screw holes. Because of this, I can't instal the speakers in the front or rear locations. Do I have to cut out some notches in the door panel for them to fit? These are not my pics, but it's an example of what I'm working with. http://www.caliberforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3278&d=1223573418 http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/electronics/detail-page/B001P88TOA-1.jpg Does anyone have some insight? 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truthsayer Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Need to see the door panels and speakers your working with. truthsayer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickybobby Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 not too sure if i see what ur talkin abouot? but if they dont allow you to mount the speaker flat/flush with the mounting surface, then just grind em down flat 03 s-10 owned since 35k now 150k alpine type-s 6.5 comp alpine type-e 10 ported fiberglass jl 300/4 (dead) jl500/1 (dead) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 The 4 notches that protude from the speaker frame is preventing me from installing in the factory location. I don't want to take a grinder to new speakers. If I do grind them down, I'll lose my screw holes. 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickybobby Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 The 4 notches that protude from the speaker frame is preventing me from installing in the factory location. I don't want to take a grinder to new speakers. If I do grind them down, I'll lose my screw holes. oooohhh, take a pic of your new speaker in the door. this will help out alot. take the old speaker out 03 s-10 owned since 35k now 150k alpine type-s 6.5 comp alpine type-e 10 ported fiberglass jl 300/4 (dead) jl500/1 (dead) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisted1 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Bring em back or trim door... simple as that 09 mustang gt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 The 4 notches that protude from the speaker frame is preventing me from installing in the factory location. I don't want to take a grinder to new speakers. If I do grind them down, I'll lose my screw holes. oooohhh, take a pic of your new speaker in the door. this will help out alot. take the old speaker out That's the problem. The speaker won't even fit in the door because of those notches. I tried. I'm at school killing time, my speakers are back at the house. =/ 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Bring em back or trim door... simple as that Trim the door how. Thats what I'm trying to figure out. 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jk13 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 If the screw holes line up you can trim away some of the sharpness of the tabs on the speakers to allow them to sit down in there. If they don't or you can't make that work build some spacer plates if you have room between the front of the speaker and the door panel. If none of that works either pay to have it done or exchange for 6x9s with the traditional shape you have in your door. Static drops are my bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 The screw holes do line up. I guess I'll try to trim the ears down. I'm just concerned about the heat generated by this. I don't want to loosen or melt the woofer surround. What kind of tool and attachment should I use? Dremel and cutoff or dremel and grinder? 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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