bassl0va Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 If you want to make sure you won't melt anything do it manually. If it is softish plastic you could cut it with a box cutter then sand off the excess. but it'd be quicker with a power tool. Just be careful with what you are doing and you won't melt anything My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted December 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Alright. Update. I got the dremel and trimmed the plastic and metal. Magnet hits the back of the weather guard/shroud thingy in my door. *facepalm* What should be my next plan of attack? Also wanted to add that I can screw down the speakers and it push against the shroud, but idk if that's healthy for the speaker. 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afro Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Alright. Update. I got the dremel and trimmed the plastic and metal. Magnet hits the back of the weather guard/shroud thingy in my door. *facepalm* What should be my next plan of attack? Also wanted to add that I can screw down the speakers and it push against the shroud, but idk if that's healthy for the speaker. Can you build a baffle/ Spacer ring out of 1/2" or 3/4" MDF to space it out some, but still allowing for the factory grille to go back on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted December 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Alright. Update. I got the dremel and trimmed the plastic and metal. Magnet hits the back of the weather guard/shroud thingy in my door. *facepalm* What should be my next plan of attack? Also wanted to add that I can screw down the speakers and it push against the shroud, but idk if that's healthy for the speaker. Can you build a baffle/ Spacer ring out of 1/2" or 3/4" MDF to space it out some, but still allowing for the factory grille to go back on? Measured it out. I might have room for 1/4" spacer and not sure if that'll even let the grill be installed. It's a super tight fit. Retarded design. 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afro Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Alright. Update. I got the dremel and trimmed the plastic and metal. Magnet hits the back of the weather guard/shroud thingy in my door. *facepalm* What should be my next plan of attack? Also wanted to add that I can screw down the speakers and it push against the shroud, but idk if that's healthy for the speaker. Can you build a baffle/ Spacer ring out of 1/2" or 3/4" MDF to space it out some, but still allowing for the factory grille to go back on? Measured it out. I might have room for 1/4" spacer and not sure if that'll even let the grill be installed. It's a super tight fit. Retarded design. If it's 1/4" you can probably mock that up with cardboard, before going out and buying mdf. Take some cardboard, make a few layers of baffles, and see if you can resolve both issues (front and rear clearance) by layering them. Will be time consuming but at least you won't be out of any moolah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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