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Looking for help designing a enclosure for 2 10" for Home use


TrentonLong

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OP do you have a model for the sub AND are you confident you can get another identical one? and what amp are you using?

Sony subs I know probably are not worth doing anything with them, also home audio amps don't usually have low pass filters but let's see.

Well you see here... :D When I first got into car audio. I used a PSU to hook up an amp in My home. So I'm just using that and a cheap amp from waly-world. Now I'm thinking of just using the one sub I have like bbeljefe said to make a T-Line box. And no bbeljefe, I don't live in an apartment. But would it be worth it to build a T-Line? I mean I don't have like a router or any fancy tools. I'm doing this mostly for music and not for movies/Home Theater use. kinda like steve did for chicken.

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T line boxes are nice but large in size and usually harder to build, the sub must meet some criteria to work well in a t line so a sub model is really important to determine that (as for any other type of enclosure). The main feature they have is high efficiency, to me t lines are good option for small higher quality subs in a setting where you may have limited power like a larger hybrid vehicle.

If you want a sane sized easy to build box, ported is the way to go IMO, they will need a bit more power (less than sealed) but in your home that should not be a problem.

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Hell yes it's worth it to build a line. Especially in a home audio system where space constraints aren't as limiting. And if you have the tools to build a ported box, you have them to build a line. After all, a line is nothing more than one long "port" so, if you can build a box with an L port... just build a longer one with no "box".

A line will take up about 3 times the space that a conventional ported box takes up but the benefit is that it takes less than a third of the power to make one slam. And, there is no such thing as a sub that won't perform well in a line. TS numbers don't really matter unless you're an audio snob who thinks you can tell the difference between a $50.00 set of interconnects and a $100.00 set of interconnects. And if that's the case, you're probably a magazine reviewer and no one can talk to you because you already think you know everything. ;-)

The thing with t-lines is that they are so fucking easy to calculate that you can do it on paper with an 8th grade education. The difficulty comes in fitting the line length and area into the space you have and in fitting a high powered sub (which have deep mounting depths) into the box. Of course, inverting the sub eliminates the last problem.

But yeah... it's more than worth it.

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Well here are the specs:

8qdb.jpg

Lame 6mm Xmax, sure works for sealed, cheap subs are made in a way that the enclosure does not cost a lot (small). Ported not sure, maybe not the best for it but I would need to check, T line, it will be a mammoth that can run on a batteries powered amp, 6 mm Xmax is not too much and rap is excursion friendly.

I wouldn't spend a dime on that sub, I would instead get myself a decent used powered HT sub for cheap, those are small and very effective on the lows.

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Six millimeters of xmax is pitiful in a car audio build but in a home audio setup, that's not out of line. And with an Fs of 37.7, the line would only need to be 7.5' long. That equates to <3ftⁿ for one sub and <6ftⁿ for two.

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I would like to build a box that is "universal". Like I could drop almost any 10 or 12(not like a real HO sub) like a Sundown SA 10 or 12 or a RE Audio Pro Series 10 or 12. And get good sound from it. I don't have a lot of money so I don't want to make a box that will just work with one sub.

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This section of the forum could probably be deleted if universal boxes were practical or even possible, at most you can probably do a box to fit many different 12s and with variable tuning for example.

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This section of the forum could probably be deleted if universal boxes were practical or even possible, at most you can probably do a box to fit many different 12s and with variable tuning for example.

I meant put subs that are similar to the other. Not on that is 150w vs one that is 1500w. If that doesn't work/make sense, just forget I said anything.

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This section of the forum could probably be deleted if universal boxes were practical or even possible, at most you can probably do a box to fit many different 12s and with variable tuning for example.

I meant put subs that are similar to the other. Not on that is 150w vs one that is 1500w. If that doesn't work/make sense, just forget I said anything.

Sub rated power is not such a big player in box specs as long as port area is large enough and the box solid enough, sub diameter does make a big difference for example.

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