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89 Mustang Voltage Drops With Small System?


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hey guys I've got 2 old skool rockford fosgate 10s with a old 900 watt rms audiobahn amp and I'm getting voltage drops in my 89 mustang.

I know the stock alternator is a 95 amp alternator but I don't know if the one I have is stock, I'm going to have it checked soon at autozone. Is there anything I can do to other than an alternator, battery and big 3, to stop the voltage drops? or are those the only options?

I'm going to do the big 3 very soon and then I'm going to get a 130 amp alternator in a couple months.

What else can I do? I'm scared of frying my amp. I don't know what my voltage is dropping to but I can see my voltage reading drop majorly and the headlights dimm a lot. the headlights dimm so bad that I cannot drive at night while having my stereo on other than having my high beams on but for some weird reason the amp is not getting hot at all even after an hour of strait running.

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You are not going to fry your amp from the voltage drops. The amp draws less then 100 amps most likely. Ive seen my friends audiobahn hc2300a drop his voltage into the 10s in his cavi with stock alt, amp still works fine. You only got to worry about frying amps due to low voltage when you have monster amps that are 3 and 4 thousand rms, drawing over 300 amps of current.

I dont know what audiobahn amp you have, but if it is a HC series, it is high current which means it takes more power for it to make its power.

You can do the big 3.

You can upgrade your wire to at least 0 gauge if not already done.

You can upgrade your battery under the hood, and put a spare one in the trunk.

Other then that, theres not much that can be done. :mad:

 

 

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You are not going to fry your amp from the voltage drops. The amp draws less then 100 amps most likely. Ive seen my friends audiobahn hc2300a drop his voltage into the 10s in his cavi with stock alt, amp still works fine. You only got to worry about frying amps due to low voltage when you have monster amps that are 3 and 4 thousand rms, drawing over 300 amps of current.

I dont know what audiobahn amp you have, but if it is a HC series, it is high current which means it takes more power for it to make its power.

You can do the big 3.

You can upgrade your wire to at least 0 gauge if not already done.

You can upgrade your battery under the hood, and put a spare one in the trunk.

Other then that, theres not much that can be done. :mad:

I heard that If you run 2 batteries that it would kill your alternator, is this true?

and I have 1 gauge would it be worth it to change to 0 gauge?

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I heard that If you run 2 batteries that it would kill your alternator, is this true?

and I have 1 gauge would it be worth it to change to 0 gauge?

No and no.

Just about every member of the forum is running at least two batteries :)

You will kill your alternator buy having a crap battery and draining it dead and relying on your alternator for the current.

Me, I just want to use my alternator to keep my batteries charged, and use my batteries to play the stereo.

 

 

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all right sounds good, What would you reccomend for a battery? I know theres millions of choices but considering all I know of for car audio batteries are kinetic and powermaster but those are a little out of my price range so does it really matter what battery I go with? thanks for all your help I was really scared that my amp was gonna catch fire lol What I got that from is in a lot of peoples sigs it says- noobs plus car audio=voltage drops = fires

I saw that and was just kinda like scared.

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I only had a kicker kx800.2 and i fried it and kicker said it was from voltage drop. I was running stock electrical.

Do what audiofanaticz said and upgrade batteries.

1996 Chevy blazer

Pioneer deck dehp6800mp

clarion eq

Hifonics BXI1606d (Subs)

1 18" RE MT

Box specs: 6.7cuft @35hz 14.2sqin of port per cuft (Noobtastic design)

Crunch GP1400.4 (Mids & Highs)

Boston Acoustic mids and highs

Stock alt

Stinger SP800

Bunch of 0 and 4 gauge wire

remt.jpg

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all right sounds good, What would you reccomend for a battery? I know theres millions of choices but considering all I know of for car audio batteries are kinetic and powermaster but those are a little out of my price range so does it really matter what battery I go with? thanks for all your help I was really scared that my amp was gonna catch fire lol What I got that from is in a lot of peoples sigs it says- noobs plus car audio=voltage drops = fires

I saw that and was just kinda like scared.

depends on your budget, you dont have to buy the biggest battery possible.

You can get a powermaster d925 for the same price as a yellow top and it will also put out more power. http://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/D925/10002/-1

and if thats still to much, Im sure you could always goto a auto parts store like autozone and buy 1 or 2 cheap duralasts that have the highest cranking amps.

something like this http://www.autozone.com/R,APP336393/vehicl...oductDetail.htm

And then just put that 2nd battery as close to the amp as you can with the least amount of wire used. :)

I only had a kicker kx800.2 and i fried it and kicker said it was from voltage drop. I was running stock electrical.

Yea, but Im also betting that kx800.2 is putting out more power then his audiobahn.

its fused at 120 amps, 840rms bridged @ 4 ohm 14.4v

Im thinking that kicker is slightly under rated, and making more then that 840rms :)

 

 

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depends on your budget, you dont have to buy the biggest battery possible.

You can get a powermaster d925 for the same price as a yellow top and it will also put out more power. http://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/D925/10002/-1

and if thats still to much, Im sure you could always goto a auto parts store like autozone and buy 1 or 2 cheap duralasts that have the highest cranking amps.

something like this http://www.autozone.com/R,APP336393/vehicl...oductDetail.htm

And then just put that 2nd battery as close to the amp as you can with the least amount of wire used. :)

Yea, but Im also betting that kx800.2 is putting out more power then his audiobahn.

its fused at 120 amps, 840rms bridged @ 4 ohm 14.4v

Im thinking that kicker is slightly under rated, and making more then that 840rms :)

With running a second battery I should run the power wire to the rear like I already am and then run the ground to the frame right?

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and something else, I've never been told this and haven't paid attention to most installs that I haven't done but I'm supposed to put my fuse as close to the battery in th front right? I know thats something I should really know but I have no one to reference from to learn. Thanks for all your help

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yes and yes

1996 Chevy blazer

Pioneer deck dehp6800mp

clarion eq

Hifonics BXI1606d (Subs)

1 18" RE MT

Box specs: 6.7cuft @35hz 14.2sqin of port per cuft (Noobtastic design)

Crunch GP1400.4 (Mids & Highs)

Boston Acoustic mids and highs

Stock alt

Stinger SP800

Bunch of 0 and 4 gauge wire

remt.jpg

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