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Scion xB front stage


bushroot

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I started laying up the foam to make bucks for the sealed door enclosures. I'll be using the "lost foam" technique. It's similar to the idea behind lost wax casting, except with fiberglass rather than molten brass. Basically, it goes like this. You build a form of what you want the fiberglass to look like out of laminated layers of regular foam board from Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. You can get fancy with specialized Styrofoam contact adhesive, or you can simply use Gorilla Glue. The foam will tear before the glue bond breaks, so that's good enough for me. Once everything is set up, cut, sand, sculpt it all to whatever shape your little heart desires. I'll be using an epoxy resin so I don't need to worry about melting the stuff, but you could use regular polyester resin as long as you use some kind of masking between it and the foam. So, once the glass is formed around the foam and cured, you simply pour acetone into the cavity. This will melt the foam and give you a nice colored soupy mixture that you can simply pour out.

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Epoxying the mount:

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The panel will be bolted directly to the factory speaker mount.

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This is the foam negative of the enclosure:

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I was originally going to stick the foam to the back of the plywood and just glass it in situ, but the more I thought about it, it would be difficult to get the depth right. So, I propped the foam up on some sticks and wrapped it with wax paper.

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And the mortising bit got me, so I crazy glued the little flaps of skin back on:

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Blood under my epoxy!

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Did you cut out the pocket on the door panel or does the wood piece just cover that up? Are you going to glass over the entire front panel also?

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Did you cut out the pocket on the door panel or does the wood piece just cover that up? Are you going to glass over the entire front panel also?

Yes, I cut the entire pocket out. I'll take a picture of that in the morning. The wood piece is the front panel. It will be glassed to match the contours of the inner door skin, covered in vinyl, and secured to the inner door skin. The enclosure also picks up the factory speaker mounts and I'm trying to figure out at least one mounting point in the rear of the door. There's a bolt that holds the rear of the track that I might remove and replace with threaded rod and a nut to make a mounting stud for the enclosure.

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Speaker mount with vent:

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I need to glass this into the enclosure and onto the back side of the filler panel. I laid up one enclosure, but my epoxy resin doesn't seem to be hardening. I'll check it in the morning, but if it doesn't harden, I'll make the enclosure out of plywood too.

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Sweet. Looking great! Are the new panels much heavier than they were before? I put a bunch of deadener on the back of my door panels and they are considerably heavier and actually have started to crack around the screw mount behind the door handle. I made a thread about it at some point....I wanted to put riv-nuts in the door and use some button head allen bolts to mount my panels to eventually so I can have a solid mounted panel with no chance of unwanted vibrations. Probably going to do the same on that panel on the inside of the rear hatch also.

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I'm not supporting this by the plastic. I'm doing something similar to what you suggest. I'm bolted directly to the metal door frame. Also, when I'm done, I'll put plastic sheeting over my assembled enclosure and spray foam the inside of the door card. This will allow me to still remove the enclosure if I have to, deaden and insulate, and also provide support at the bottom of the door card.

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These will eventually be glassed over, but if you look, there are pockets so I can get to the nuts from the inside of the speaker hole and I have used 1/4-20 button heads as studs.

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I already posted this picture, but it helps to see what I'm on about. This will be glassed. The bamboo skewers are glued on just to create a frame for the fiberglass once the speaker is removed. This "bucket" will hold the speaker. The vent facing you is to allow it to breathe into the door enclosure I've built.

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Notice the angle of the mount? The factory mount on the door frame is not parallel to the interior door skin. It matters not. It will actually help on the other side. Part of the reason I needed to shove these things so far into the door cavity is so I can get the glove box open. I have about 3/16" of clearance between the entire "bucket" assembly and the window glass when rolled down.

My new head unit arrived:

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My DSP also showed up, but that's going to be an interesting situation. I'm going full digital from the tablet to DSP, but Epsilon (Soundstream, PPI) decided to back out in the middle of having a DSP built. It's a great unit, being built by MiniDSP, but it was aborted at the end of the development phase. It has a coaxial digital input, but no master gain control. Essentially, I have no volume control while using the digital input. I already own the thing, so I've contacted the people at MiniDSP to see if they'll help me. Barring that, I could sell it and buy a raw MiniDSP product with volume control, or I could get funky. I have 8 outputs. I could build a motorized 8 gang potentiometer. It might look kind of cool.

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