Voltage Issue

[SuperspeedWheelchair]

Good Afternoon All

I have a g37, the stock alternator is rated at 150 amps at 2700rpm. A current clamp off the lead usually shows between 120-140 if I have someone hold throttle up a bit. During play even when moving my voltage is dropping to 12-13, it causes my sub amp to start clipping. So I have to back off the volume.

My current setup uses the stock head unit with all the channels run from the stock bose into an audiocontrol lc6i in summing mode. That feeds signal to the 3sixty.3. I have jbl power series components 6 1/2(p660c) in the front doors. Rockford coaxials in the rears. and an 8" jbl midriver in the stock sub hole mounted in the rear deck. the interiors are connected to a jbl gto804ez 4 channel at 2 ohms about 100-120 watts per channel. running the middriver i have a gto-501ez at about 500rms at 2 ohms. Have a rockford p1000-1bd running a kicker l7 solobaric at 1 ohm. the birth sheet claims it was tested and can run 1430 at 1ohm 14.4 volts.I have a rockford 1 farad cap.

I have to do something im going to destroy my charging system. I'm just not sure what to do. I called ohio generator they said the stock location of the alternator will prevent me from adding a larger alt due to the stock post being to small. they tried to do it on some test cars and it caused the post on the alternator to burn off. I looked down there its real cramped. The alt sits in like a small nook on the front case of the engine. the whole damn engine compartment is crammed. I added an optima yellow top, that helped marginally. Now the alternator also has to charge this massive battery.

well thanks ahead

CJ

[jarrius]

What year car di you have. I know in my 2012 sonic my alt is controlled by the computer in the car and 90% of the time when i hook up a meter it is only reading 12.5-12.8v even wile driving 70 down the highway. Then it will jump up to 14.5-15 depending. So you might have part of the same issue as me.

[UnderLoK]

Dropping to 12-13 just means you are using all the alt has to offer. If you're in the 13's the alt isn't maxed out yet.

If I were you, I would do big 3, remove that cap, and make sure you have enough ground in the rear. What gauge is your ground in the back and how is each amp grounded? That 1000 might just have a jank ground.

Also if you left the stock battery in and just added the yellow top, the yellow sits at 12.6-12.8 as to where your stock battery will sit at 12.2-12.4 so the yellow top will never be fully charged as it will constantly try to get the stock battery to match it. That isn't critical, but over time it will wear the yellow out qicker and it won't be 100% charged.

[Guest]

talk to mechman or dc power. email or call. if they don't have an alt, then you're SOL

[MECHMAN]

We have a unit that has the correct bolt pattern for the G37, but I don't believe we have ever put one on a G37. (the bolt pattern is the same as the earlier G35) I know they fit the G35's, but you would just have to try and see if it goes on the 3.7L engine without any problems. If it didn't fit, you could always just return it. Normally we don't give refunds, but if we know going into it that it might not fit, we allow returns.

[SuperspeedWheelchair]

Dropping to 12-13 just means you are using all the alt has to offer. If you're in the 13's the alt isn't maxed out yet.

If I were you, I would do big 3, remove that cap, and make sure you have enough ground in the rear. What gauge is your ground in the back and how is each amp grounded? That 1000 might just have a jank ground.

Also if you left the stock battery in and just added the yellow top, the yellow sits at 12.6-12.8 as to where your stock battery will sit at 12.2-12.4 so the yellow top will never be fully charged as it will constantly try to get the stock battery to match it. That isn't critical, but over time it will wear the yellow out qicker and it won't be 100% charged.

Remove the cap and replace it with something else, or just remove it all together? I know without it every time the bass hits the voltage would plummet and then shoot back up. It has to be something the voltage curve at least a little.

Also do you suggest changing the battery to something else or adding an additional one?

I have everything in the trunk connected to a distro block. The distro block is grounded to a bolt which is going through a spot where 4 pieces of sheet metal are pinch welded together. It looked like a major structural joint between the passenger compartment and the trunk. I also have another ground from the battery post negative to a factory ground in the engine compartment with a stock 10mm bolt.

The power to the rear is dual 4gauge to a distro block in the trunk. I have those running through I think they are 100 amp anl fuses.

We have a unit that has the correct bolt pattern for the G37, but I don't believe we have ever put one on a G37. (the bolt pattern is the same as the earlier G35) I know they fit the G35's, but you would just have to try and see if it goes on the 3.7L engine without any problems. If it didn't fit, you could always just return it. Normally we don't give refunds, but if we know going into it that it might not fit, we allow returns.

The stock alt is in a really crappy place. Ohio generator said I was out of luck. I didn't know mechman had an application that fits there. If you can tell me the part number or link me to the page, I will order it up and try it out. If your willing to give me a return if it doesn't work, I appreciate that. If it does work I'll give you feedback with the results, pictures if you need them and whatever else you need to let other know the application works for this particular car.