UnderLoK

Looks badass man nice work!

Not for 4 SA-18s I don't, they are 600 wrms each woofers. lol I know man, I'm just about to dump them and figured I would offer them up one last time

You need 4...

I might have to snag a couple 5ks as my 4500s barely fit with like .25" clearance width wise... lol On a side note, I really wish you guys would swap out the .5" coarse thread allens on the sides into the heat sink with some beefier 1" fine thread screws. The current ones seem to back out way too easy.

It's great seeing Jeff do well, well, when he actually posts pictures... Congrats man!

Waaaaay to blow it Ninja... Congrats Rob!

Your truck makes the room look small or like it's some kind of trick with a model and a Matchbox Car... lol

This is going to be bad ass IMHO which ever one can demo a low to mid 50 for more than 10, 15, 20 minutes at a time wins (if there is such a thing). That's the point of a demo vehicle anyways right? Play time...

I missed the part where you mentioned you removed the factory ground? Mine has all sorts of crap running to that ground so that might have something to do with it as well. Basically you want everything that grounds to go through that pickup (amp ground and factory ground). If I remember correctly it constantly samples load and adjusts accordingly, but it should only be looking every 30-60 seconds not every second. That makes me think it might have something to do with that factory ground. This is all info I read about the charging system and second hand knowledge from some alt manufacturers and techs I've talked to over the past couple years, I have too many grounds so I was never able to try it myself.

You want your amp's ground to go through that pickup if you were to "do it right". Outside of that there isn't anything else you can do unless your vehicle is one with an override. Most of the SUVs and trucks (not mine) will leave economy mode and go into charging mode if you manually turn on the lights or on models with a tow button if you hit the tow button. Those are the only two tricks I know of. With these vehicles you really only have a few options. Get AD based alts (which is what the HO alt companies should be suggesting) and deal with the charge warning, go with externally regulated and deal with a charge warning, or get an MLA. For the record I bought an MLA last year, just never got around to putting it in, should have it in next weekend though finally. If I were you and if you don't already have an HO, get an AD based alt instead and just deal with the charge warning on the dash (tell the alt manufacturer what you're doing and they will give you instructions on how to wire it up). In reference to your voltage... It's walking right? By that I mean one minute (it shouldn't be constantly moving every second) it's sitting at 13.2, the next it's at 14.1, then 13.6. then 12.8, and so on? If it's going from 14.2 to 13.3 when you turn it up then it's drop, not the PCM... The alt should still provide amps no matter what the voltage is. I have next to zero drop even when in economy mode (12.8-13.2).

More than likely because they draw from their front battery?

You fuse to prevent a fire, not to save your amps. Long story short, unless your vehicle is worth less than the cost of a 300a ANL ($0.90) or you don't have the room, fuse it.

It's the right coil running to the left coil then both to the amp.

Might have found some subs so no longer looking.

300 is 2ohm stable, 200 is 1ohm stable... The mod lets you take the 300 down to .5ohm or less, but it's below spec so it could easily blow up. 200a fuse as mentioned is more than enough. Generally speaking the fuse won't save you from blowing up your amp, but it will keep your car from catching on fire. I ran mine around .75 for like 8 years or something. It died when I was getting a jump and the guy on the other car grounded mine out. I swapped it for a 1400.1 I had in the closet and it's been running at .75 since (it was running at .5 prior) so another 5 years give or take. Best I ever saw out of my 300 was just over 1800 at 15.x volts. I'm pretty sure when they came out though they were rated at 1200 not 1400 even though they became 1400 (.5/.1/.2). Could be wrong though...