Skax Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 im sorta new to the car audio industry and ive done some research asked some questions and ive heard i should get rid of my capacitor but my only question is how should i go about powering my mids amp if my wire from battery is going into amp also what kind of fuse should i have going under the hood? and also for a 1500bdcp and 400.4 TMA 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefourth Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Use a distribution block, a 150-200 amp fuse should work Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Use a distribution block, a 150-200 amp fuse should work would it be ok to run 0awg to the distribution block and then 4awg to each amp? also what fuses for the amp and what kind of distribution block plz? 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 The way I see it you could do it one of two ways, first would be to get a some 1/0 awg wire and run it to the back from the front battery. Then use two distribution block one for the positive 12v and one for the negative ground, hook the two amps up to the distribution blocks. fusing a 200 amp fuse at the front battery and a fuse for each amp after the distribution block. 150 amp for 1500BDCP and 50 for 400.4 The other way would be to get a small battery for in the trunk and wire both amps off the rear battery, running a 300 amp fuse at the front battery and a 300 amp right before the rear battery. Then running a fuse for each amp, same amperage as stated for first option. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Use a distribution block, a 150-200 amp fuse should workwould it be ok to run 0awg to the distribution block and then 4awg to each amp? also what fuses for the amp and what kind of distribution block plz? that wire will be fine, doing what you are saying. That's how I have mine. I'm on mobile so it's hard but just Google car audio distribution block. I would say 200-250 fuse on the wire before the distribution block On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefourth Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 As long as your 0 gauge is your primary power wire then yes, 4 gauge to both amps is fine. A distribution block with a 0 gauge input and 2 4 gauge outputs will work just fine. You can get yourself one like this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15319_e2-EWDB2-by-Scosche.html that is fused for two runs. A 100-150 amp fuse for the 1500 would work and a 50 amp should hold up the 4 channel Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Use a distribution block, a 150-200 amp fuse should workwould it be ok to run 0awg to the distribution block and then 4awg to each amp? also what fuses for the amp and what kind of distribution block plz?that wire will be fine, doing what you are saying. That's how I have mine. I'm on mobile so it's hard but just Google car audio distribution block. I would say 200-250 fuse on the wire before the distribution block im confused on how to go about installing the 2 distribution block though so your saying put 1 at the end of the run in the trunk and then hook my 4awg into the other side along with a ground? what would i do about the ground on the amp?? im just confused lol 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 As long as your 0 gauge is your primary power wire then yes, 4 gauge to both amps is fine. A distribution block with a 0 gauge input and 2 4 gauge outputs will work just fine. You can get yourself one like this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15319_e2-EWDB2-by-Scosche.html that is fused for two runs. A 100-150 amp fuse for the 1500 would work and a 50 amp should hold up the 4 channel i guess my question to is would this be more sufficent than using the capacitor? 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefourth Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 I think what he means is to fuse 200-250 amps at your upfront battery. Then run your power into the distro, with the 2 4 gauge POWER outs into your amps. Then ground each amp seperately. No need for a distro for grounds. Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 You need separate wires for ground a positive, you can run two runs to the back or positive to the back and use a chassis ground in the back On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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