*SOLVED* *Im happy as balls*CANNOT get wire into my doors...last straw before i'm done....any help? *pictures top of page 4* and first post.

[SlamminBeats]

biggest key here is the hole isnt big enough otherwise running the wire through would be fine.. its making the hole bigger or even making a whole to begin with

[Swordlordboy1234]

Well the other wires will be forced out of the way if there is ANY ROOM. Even a millimeter from each wire could make a difference. :edit: because the lube will give it no friction... (Trying to not make any sexual references here) but even when you think there is no room, a lot of lube will do wonders...

Might need 14ga...

Might need to make the hole bigger or a new hole.

But I'm still 100% success rate with dads technique.

The asshole let me mess around with my passenger door (easier door) for 4 hours in the Florida sun before he taught me how to do it... Then it took 30 minutes a door.

[SlamminBeats]

i hate seeing my nice car all ripped up and having to drive it everyday....sucks

[ncochran]

In my truck I was lazy and just ran wires from my amp to the space behind my head unit. Then I tied into the factory wiring that already ran to my speakers. Sounded just fine... I did it the lazy way because I knew I would be selling the truck to my sister-in-law within 6 months of installation and would just be pulling the gear back out anyway.

On my Scion I did it right. It was a beeotch but I have nice 12g wire running all through the car so I have more room for expansion. To get from inside the car to inside the doors I used a normal metal fish tape. For lube.. not gonna lie.. I spit on that bitch lol. I have been an electrician for almost 17 years now, and although I have access to lube specifically made for pulling wire http://www.grainger.com/product/5ZNP4?cm_mmc=CSE:PriceGrabber-_-Lubrication-_-Lubricants-_-5ZNP4&srccode=cii_5784816&cpncode=27-272446334-2 I can't even count how many times I have used spit lol...

The molex connectors used on cars today absolutely suck.. but most of them have enough room to drill a hole or 2 in.

As for your concerns about using the 18g wire already installed in the vehicle.. at 100W there is no reason that you can't. Despite what some people may say.. that wire WILL carry the current, and there is no way in hell you will burn up that wire with 100W of power.

[Swordlordboy1234]

I know man, but its worth a try in my opinion. There are some good suggestions In here... Worst case, I just buy a couple things and you return everything else.

I don't want it to come to that because we need all the bassheads we can get. I can always buy more speakers but bassheads are hard to come by.

You got this man.

[SlamminBeats]

Do you guys all think i can get away with running it from back of heaunit to the amp and use factory wire so its half 18 and half 12?

that may be the only option in th eend...or its bye bye time

=[

[Swordlordboy1234]

Not something I would do..... But I'm not the electrician, I'm just a kid who spent 5 years so far learning all I can and enjoying every second of my bass life.

But my factory wire was like 22ga. Either way I'd find a way to brute force it in or cut a hole and make it right.

[Crandis16]

i hate seeing my nice car all ripped up and having to drive it everyday....sucks

If you want it to look clean, then make it look clean

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/eli-4301-70-011/overview/

[SlamminBeats]

so much support is crazy! thanks to all who are trying to help me out in a tough time.

look at me bitching and crying over a damn wire loom. lol

i walled this bitch once youd think running a wire would be easy. The biggest problem is that the grommet isnt accessible through thedash directly, i cant gwt a finger on it!!

[Raptorman]

I'm not reading through this bible of a thread, but what I do when I get desperate is run the wires to behind the head unit and connect the factory speaker wire to the speaker wire coming from the amp, connect at the harness.