Purpleheart91 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Actually since the 12" sub is in a movable enclosure all I would have to do is disconnect the wires from the 12" sub enclosure speaker connectors and put wire nuts on the wire ends to prevent them from grounding out to each other or the body. I wouldn't have to get to the amp which is under the rear seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Your logic is flawed sir. My 6.5 mids do not play the same freq as my 12" sub. All speakers dont play the same Freq. Your best bet is do do what Alaskanzx5 said, run the 12 with more power until you need to remove it. And then run the 8". If speakers can handle bridged power from amp then run both that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purpleheart91 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 My logic was not flawed I never said anything about a 6.5" speaker playing the same frequency as your 12" sub. I used to install systems when I worked at Audio Video Discounters before I went in the Army. I do know a little about system building and installation and what the difference is between the frequency range of a midrange 6.5" and a subwoofer 12" speaker. I said there are many systems out there that use different size speakers to cover the same frequency range. And there are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purpleheart91 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Two different sized speaker would not cancel each other out unless you had them wired out of phase in which case even two speakers of the same size would cancel each other out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Your logic is flawed sir. My 6.5 mids do not play the same freq as my 12" sub. All speakers dont play the same Freq. Your best bet is do do what Alaskanzx5 said, run the 12 with more power until you need to remove it. And then run the 8". If speakers can handle bridged power from amp then run both that way. Just not both subs at the same time. If anything you will loose output and sq. Never said brand of the 12. If the 12 can take the power give it the power the amp can put out. More cone area more output (double cone area can increase out put a much as 3db). You have the advice you need take it our leave it. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Where you statement may be correct to some extent, it would be in a application where one had 8" in the doors or kicker panels. Not a 8 & 12 next to each other in the back of a SUV. Speaker freq overlap and even a 8" midbass would have higher crossover points than the 12". Good luck to you and your build sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 If you where such a great installer then why ask such a trivial question? This is info that any installer should know before touching a system. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purpleheart91 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Nice, thank you, I appreciate your time and help. Sorry I did forget to mention the brand of the 12" DVC sub it is a MA audio MA121XQ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 No you might not get cancellation but the main point here is that if you want more output use the 12 to it's full extent instead of bottle necking it with less power. What are the box specs for the 12 anyways? Brand of 12"? Ported out sealed? you want lows are do you like sealed boxes? t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purpleheart91 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 First I never said I was a great installer, I simply said I used to install systems before I went in the Army and I knew the difference between a 6.5" midrange and a 12" subwoofer....which by the way was about 30 years ago. A lot has changed in automotive audio and video. Second knowing whether an amp will run safely at two different loads as long as the minimum stable load is seen on each channel is not the same as looking at a spec sheet for a piece of equipment and being able to determine all the specification of that piece of equipment. It is not a situation that is normally covered and therefore not something that someone would have to know to install the piece of equipment. I simply asked if anyone knew whether or not it was feasible as in they had run into the situation in the past and knew from experience and in this case someone did in fact have experience with a similar situation and offered their advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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