TokenBassGuy Posted January 28, 2014 Report Posted January 28, 2014 I am not sure if anyone had already asked this and I do apologize if it has. In a setup that requires at least 2 batteries or more, would it be wise to just get a rear battery mount kit and work from there or keep 1 battery up front and then run fusable link to the rear where the other batteries sit? Thanks in advance for any/all responses!
MECHMAN Posted January 31, 2014 Report Posted January 31, 2014 I would leave the battery in the stock location for the reserve power and up grade it then run to the auxiliary battery/batteries. I would certainly fuse a long length of cable for safeties sake. How many watts RMS are you trying to power? 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected]
TokenBassGuy Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Posted January 31, 2014 Current setup as follows: 2000 Dodge Durango V8 (big 3 '0 gauge') 163 amp alternator, yellow top Optima G31 to a 14v 1.5 farad cap. DEFINITELY FUSED! :-O bang, fire, sad....... no lol... Amp:KENWOOD KAC-X401M Mono Amplifier-1200 Watts x 1-400 Watts x 1@2 Ohms Subs: 2 JBL 12" 1000 Watts (sealed box) Issue: lights dimming at highway speeds (approx 2500 to 3500 RPM 70 MPH) Do I need a second battery, stronger altenator, or both? :/ Thank you in advance, for your time! Ray aka TokenBassGuy
MECHMAN Posted January 31, 2014 Report Posted January 31, 2014 IMO i would ditch the cap and add a battery in its place. Ive heard the endless capacitor argument but my take on the subject there just useless or there would be more of them in competition vehicles .. A high output alternator would be the next step after the fact 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected]
TokenBassGuy Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 Thank you, I will give the cap away and pick up another Yellow cap battery(in parallel w/fuse). I do plan to add a 15" Orion 1000 Watts sub, at some point(currently on a shelf next to an amercan legacy 3000 Watt amp). Where and how do I get my hands on a controllable high output alternator? I have seen Steve Meade with some, "mechman alternators?" How easy are they to install and how safe are they with the stock electronics? Thank you, TokenBassGuy
Tarball Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 Another option for the cap is to install the cap close to your vehicle fuse box instead of close to the amp. But ultimately if your lights are diming you are pulling more power than your alternator can produce. H.O. alt for ftw! Also, if not already have your gains set with a DD-1/scope to minimize clippage. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
TokenBassGuy Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 Cool Tarball, I think I will just get rid of the cap and get another battery. I did use an oscilloscope to make sure I'm not getting any clipping or saturation. Also, I never turn the gains up fully, that will only cause distortion. Thank you for your time, TokenBassGuy
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