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you could take it a step further and wetsand with 3000 or a trizac 3000 grit pad, it will start to bring back the shine and make buffing easier. And for buffing I always used 3m compound #1,#2,#3. Also maybe pick up a cheap buffer?

3000 ??? I dont think I have ever seen 3000. And yes a cheap buffer is in my future.

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you could take it a step further and wetsand with 3000 or a trizac 3000 grit pad, it will start to bring back the shine and make buffing easier. And for buffing I always used 3m compound #1,#2,#3. Also maybe pick up a cheap buffer?

3000 ??? I dont think I have ever seen 3000. And yes a cheap buffer is in my future.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=3000+grit+wet+sandpaper&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=26784214525&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12319802181863133875&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6fv9uaa67b_e

Lol there is 3000 grit sandpaper, I used it on a mustang quartpanel to bring back some of the shine, took time out of the final buff time. Because all your doing is refining the scratches so when I did the quarter panel, who ever sprayed it got runs and pollen so I took a razor blade and cut the runs then I started with 1000 grit,than 1200 or 1500 can't remember. Then went to 3000 before I buffed it. Also look around I think portacable has a cheap like 80 buffer, also some autozones have a buffing kit for like 69 dollars.

sig_zps1a8d8f11.jpg

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Also, if your worried about burning through on the edges, use masking tape and tape of the edges. And good luck in for results:D

Because it's all curved I am worried. I have a feeling this will take a lot of elbow grease

Here is a pic from a few days ago.

20140125_154501_zpsfp5alm9x.jpg

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I would use a soft flexible wet sanding block, that way it conforms to the curves and also let it cure for a day or two. And then tape the edges off, because I guarantee you will burn through the edges faster than sanding a flat part, or curved part. Now I am not claiming to be a professional, but I went through burning through edges when I took my collision repair class(had 3.5 years of it) and once you burn through the edges its a pain to fix. And remember your paint will only look as good as your prep work so make sure you are happy with the prep job before you paint:) also what color are you using?

here's a link to maybe help and give some ideas.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?31766-Practice-wet-sanding-buffing-polishing-applying-sealant

Edit you should be able to find a block like this as an orileys or autozone it will be flexible/stiff

http://www.amazon.com/3M-05526-Wetordry-2-3-Sponge/dp/B000PEPCGI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1391326699&sr=8-6&keywords=3m+wet+sanding+block

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It will stay white. I think I'm on the 7th or 8th coat. Only sanded to up 600 grit between coats so far. Because of the curves, a 2" PVC pipe with sand paper wrapped around it has been my main sanding block.

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Well white will be more forgiving, and I would really suggest a sanding block that is flexible, squishy, while doing the wet sanding of the clear coat. And it looks really good, and I bet it will turn on good!

Thanks. And I will find a flexible sanding block. I will need one for the Amp rack/center console. The poor box has been the learning part of this project.

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Autozone, or any orileys should have one, just make sure its meant for wetsanding, or I could sen you one if you want. And also learning is fun if it's something you like doing:) and even if it's been a learning curve it looks really good

sig_zps1a8d8f11.jpg

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Autozone, or any orileys should have one, just make sure its meant for wetsanding, or I could sen you one if you want. And also learning is fun if it's something you like doing:) and even if it's been a learning curve it looks really good

This learning curve cost me a crap load of money doing the port walls which you can't see in the pic. There are even more rules to metallic paint than I thought. I am enjoying the learning. But it is making the build take longer than planned on :(

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