Joe X Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 All dimensions look exactly correct, I did slant the extension parts on the inner end, can also be rounded just like in the opposite end. Great sketch, the harder part is cut as accurately but if you are careful you will manage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fiesta Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 All dimensions look exactly correct, I did slant the extension parts on the inner end, can also be rounded just like in the opposite end. Great sketch, the harder part is cut as accurately but if you are careful you will manage. oke, thank you very much for all your help! i really appreciate that! i think im going to round the extensions as wel. i will start a build topic on this forum and put the link in this topic so you can see what im doing and ill let you know how it sounds! thank you, thank you, thank you for helping me! grtz! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Glad to help, happy building, looking forward to see your build log. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fiesta Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 1question, how should i wire my subs? im going to play them on 1ohm.. i know its all negative together and all positive togther but i want to knwo the best way to come out of the enclosure with my wires.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodied B2600ZX Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 I used binding posts on mine. These are Dayton satin nickel binding posts. They are a lot better than the terminal cups for high powered systems. Some people just use bolts and nuts to simulate binding posts. These cost me $8 a pair. 2 - Sundown SA 8V2 | CT Sounds 1400.1 | Pioneer DEH-X8500BS | 4/0 Big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Yes bolts and nuts, additionally you don't need to solder, the amp has two positive and two negative terminals, you can use one set to each sub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fiesta Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Yes bolts and nuts, additionally you don't need to solder, the amp has two positive and two negative terminals, you can use one set to each sub. so, wire each sub to 2ohm and connect each sub to a channel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Those terminals in the amp are connected in parallel so yes you will be wired to 1 ohm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fiesta Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 Those terminals in the amp are connected in parallel so yes you will be wired to 1 ohm. so like this? (4ohm dvc) and is this a good cable set for the massive audio n3? http://www.carfantasy.nl/hifonics-kabelkit-35mm2-hf35wk-p-73032.html and what wire thicknes do i need to go from amp to subs? grtz! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodied B2600ZX Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 Yes wire them like that. That will give you a 1ohm load. I would use at least 12awg wire to go from amp to sub. I'm running 10awg to my sundown sa 8v2. It's overkill but you can't have too much copper. 2 - Sundown SA 8V2 | CT Sounds 1400.1 | Pioneer DEH-X8500BS | 4/0 Big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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