Upgrades needed to run 2-2.5k daily

[Kyblack76]

I plan on wiring down to 1 ohm on a BC2k. Four channel is going to be a Rockford 600.4 All going into a 01 Honda Accord. I don't really have to many expectations at this point. Maybe meter it this spring just for the hell of it.

What i do know.. Not knowing your car, but in my same build, i had my TSX, a Honda more or less. Acura.

The alt it had was a 6 phase DENSO unit. For OEM, it was hard to beat. So, look at what your OEM alt does first.

Give it every chance to do its job. Big 3, with quality wire, connection methods, and proper locations of grounds.

With the biggest up front, and the biggest you can afford or fit in the rear ( 3100 or, 7500) IMHO id start there. Watch voltage, and then increase, starting with a generator (alt) and or add bank. Just me

[thefourth]

Yeah.... My OEM alt has to be around 80 amps... Could be more but I can't see it being any bigger than 100 amps. Seems like it's been starting to fail lately, so I'm going to put in a H/O. I've got plans for the Big 3 in 0 gauge OFC.

Still debating the "ELD Bypass" as well.

[Trey_Dog650]

i hear you got to do the eld by pass unless you leave your lights on all the time or something

[alaskanzx5]

2-2.5k rms will pull around 350-400 amps including what the car itself needs. so if you get a 200 amp alt you would need around 150ah of storage IMO.

a 250 or bigger alt would be a better choice if you can. More supply means less storage needed.

2 runs of 0 gauge front to back and a solid frame ground should be fine. Big 3 with a good ground for the alt case and grounding the alt and Batt to the same place it a ground from the batt to alt car is a good idea.

The thing is, is that is the math.

That is OPTIMUM pull on a amplifier.

Me? Id expect half that for just bumpin.

I ran a RF 2500bdcp at 1ohm, with a 200 amp fuse. Never blew it..... Do you see what im saying?

What they are rated at, and can legit do, you almost NEVER see. Take the DYNO testing into account.

They are showing that YES they can do it. Under certain circumstances.

Listening to music that is nutty dynamic,.... you wont just sit at the optimum impedance, with optimum voltage, in a optimum everything.

Maybe im going to deep.... (ive never been told that )

I completely agree with that. On music you will hardly see rated power. I have a t1500.1bdcp and was using a 150 amp fuse (200 recommended) and never had an issue with it. Had a 100 amp in while waiting for the 150 fuses to come and used that until it blew. Took a 51hz test tone on an iasca CD. I know first hand what the math says it will pull and what it will pull in the real world are 2 different things. Like most I believe in overkill on electrical though.

Honestly 200 amp alt and a group 31 should be enough. I would rather have a bigger alt and smaller storage though. The biggest alt you can get will reduce the amount of batteries needed.

If the alt can't keep up you will fall to battery voltage, battery voltage is less then an alt so in return you loose power. More power supply from the alt the more power you can put out.

[Kyblack76]

2-2.5k rms will pull around 350-400 amps including what the car itself needs. so if you get a 200 amp alt you would need around 150ah of storage IMO.

a 250 or bigger alt would be a better choice if you can. More supply means less storage needed.

2 runs of 0 gauge front to back and a solid frame ground should be fine. Big 3 with a good ground for the alt case and grounding the alt and Batt to the same place it a ground from the batt to alt car is a good idea.

The thing is, is that is the math.

That is OPTIMUM pull on a amplifier.

Me? Id expect half that for just bumpin.

I ran a RF 2500bdcp at 1ohm, with a 200 amp fuse. Never blew it..... Do you see what im saying?

What they are rated at, and can legit do, you almost NEVER see. Take the DYNO testing into account.

They are showing that YES they can do it. Under certain circumstances.

Listening to music that is nutty dynamic,.... you wont just sit at the optimum impedance, with optimum voltage, in a optimum everything.

Maybe im going to deep.... (ive never been told that )

I completely agree with that. On music you will hardly see rated power. I have a t1500.1bdcp and was using a 150 amp fuse (200 recommended) and never had an issue with it. Had a 100 amp in while waiting for the 150 fuses to come and used that until it blew. Took a 51hz test tone on an iasca CD. I know first hand what the math says it will pull and what it will pull in the real world are 2 different things. Like most I believe in overkill on electrical though.

Honestly 200 amp alt and a group 31 should be enough. I would rather have a bigger alt and smaller storage though. The biggest alt you can get will reduce the amount of batteries needed.

If the alt can't keep up you will fall to battery voltage, battery voltage is less then an alt so in return you loose power. More power supply from the alt the more power you can put out.

Yes sir. Im right right with you.

Now, if and when the optimum build, bank/elect, and rating collide , you get loud.... fucking loud.

I also, would prefer alt over bank/bat. But, its hard for everyone to run 5 alts.

Or pull a J Rabe, and do half a dozen alts, and 55 bats or so. FUuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

but, for us low budget type, there are still options.

Me? Id rather have a HO alt that does work in the "middle" range. Not a top load beast, but, a middle of the pack hog.

Bank accordingly. get loud... and be able to do it all day every day. ( I have a hard on for builds, that are involved, but UBER reliable, i respect that shit)

good thread, good info

EDIT -SOOOOoooo, saying, what do i need for 3.5k daily, is kinda hard. It was obvious, i wasnt making close to the power i could.

So the bank i had? maybe wasnt good enough ??! Feel me?

But, while i held damn near alt voltage, id expect that someone that could "pull" and "demand" on the elec i had, i feel it COULD have just fine, and also done it reliable. Dropping to high high bat rest or bat rest respectively

[alaskanzx5]

Whenever I get a chance to do my build if it can play daily already until the subs get hot I will not be happy. I do expect a pair of 1200 rms on 3k to get warm at the least only 600 rms over but they are distant power amps so there is a better chance fir more power.