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Quarter Wave / T-Line tutorial-UPDATED


Forevrbumpn

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build an extension table for your table saw

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

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Looking good so far!

I need a bigger table saw, had to free hand with my Skil saw all the long cuts. Gonna be giving my sander a helluva workout to make all the panels line up right :)

I had it easy this time around because Im enrolled in a woodshop lab that gives me access to all their equipment. Panel Saw FTW when it comes to doing boxes with 90* cuts.

But if you get stuck using the skil saw...get a straight edge or make one out of a long strip of MDF clamp both ends and you can have straight cuts.

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I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
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I don't recomend inverting your sub in a t-line. T-lines are more about sound quality, and control... however they do SOUND louder, they may or may not meter the same way. Alo, DON'T FORGET 45s in the corners, its important, so that you don't create turbulance. You wil be surprised of the output and control of it. good luck. I like to see people trying new things, and learning. Oh, also if you can round over your inner corners and the outside of your port mouth. You can also add small blocks just after the sub in the begining of the line, to create a choke, or loading effect. I found it to help a bit. just try not to leave any 90 degree edges if you can.

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I don't recomend inverting your sub in a t-line. T-lines are more about sound quality, and control... however they do SOUND louder, they may or may not meter the same way. Alo, DON'T FORGET 45s in the corners, its important, so that you don't create turbulance. You wil be surprised of the output and control of it. good luck. I like to see people trying new things, and learning. Oh, also if you can round over your inner corners and the outside of your port mouth. You can also add small blocks just after the sub in the begining of the line, to create a choke, or loading effect. I found it to help a bit. just try not to leave any 90 degree edges if you can.

Inverting the driver makes no difference to the t-line.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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hello all,

I will be building a t-line for 3 SSA DCON 12's. The box will be going in my Tahoe. I am wondering if pointing subs up and port back will be ok ?

Also, I have heard not to put too many watts on your subs in a t-line. The DCON 12 is rated at 300 rms. Should I put 300 to each sub or back it down a bit. If I do need to back it down a bit, what do you recommend ?

Thanks very much for suggestions :D

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