STEvil Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 it turns the sub to face into the port slightly so it acts like a tapped horn. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblenator Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 What would that do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nCOMP1337 Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 stevil is right that would be interesting, didnt forevrbumpn recently do a box like that, i thought is aw something like that on his fb, maybe it was someone else also normally you wouldnt want the sub firing directly into the port line i think, because have of the area where the sub is firing is block and half completely open, would that affect the wave going into the line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 There's pics of it in this thread a few pages back. Also the keyword "tapped horn" should have triggered a google response.. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forevrbumpn Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Because of another thread, I been getting a lot of emails and PMs here. I haven't updated or done any build logs in the longest because I been to stuck on speaker repair and sales. Also, I have had constant back issues, sciatic nerves, disc issues, and no medical to fix me.. Usually about once a year I do something wrong, like tie my shoe, or pick something up, and bamm, bed bound for 2-3 weeks. So All I can do is stray away from heavy subs and heavy box building. There are some box designs I wanted to share with you guys that I haven't been able to test thoroughly enough yet. I wanted to see you guys try and take the task on. There are a lot of hobbyists on this site, and especially in this thread, so I'am sure I will get lots of takers on the designs. I have always took the normal Tline and tweaked it. Why go through the math and programs not readily available to build something that people think are so damn complicated, when there is a simple approach to them, that DOES work. Thats why this thread is here. Anyways, here are two for now. First is a M-Line or M horn. similar to some other exotics, but I just never could find anything exactly like it. I have built two before, but one was a mid bass 8" I tuned to about 60-65 hz, the second was a 10" to about 50. I always wanted to do a 30-40hz 15" or 18". This one shown is for a 18" I call it a M design because of the obvious shape. The line starts with a large area like the ending of a horn, the middle pinches to speed up air flow, and it ends exactly the way it started. Iam sure people who have scrap wood or who go to Homedepot for the scrap 55cent bin can do this for cheap to practice with. This second one is much easier, smaller, and is a more musical box. I have built one before with some 8" and used a 10" passive and it worked pretty good. This shown is a 50hz tline, with a 12" active in the beginning of the line, and ends with a 12" tune-able passive radiator. The radiator should be tuned to around 25hz. This should be a easy design to accomplish. The result should be something to play pretty well from 60hz to 20hz in car a 50hz line also has a 25hz 1/8th wave and a 100hz 1/2 wave- so lets see what happens I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forevrbumpn Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Also, I guess if anyone wants to try the Passive design, I can build up some tune-able Radiators 10" - 18" I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 I need some 10" type-r recones and/or for an optidrive 1232d then i'll do the M-line MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollowstylez Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I have a question about the the parameters for a good sub to use in a t-line. I understand that the qts should to be below .40 and qms should be below 7 but is one more important than the other if either one is lower? For example if Driver A 12" has a qts of .38, a qms of 4.26, and fs of 21hz and Driver B 12" has a qts of .20, a qms of 3.7, and a fs of 18.1hz. Which one of these drivers would perform the best in a t-line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nCOMP1337 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 i dont know a lot about the t/s parameters of subs, but isnt the lower the qms, qts, the more sq the subwoofer is geared towards? I remember you posting something similar to the M horn a while back, it definitely seems like an interesting enclosure. it will be interesting to see some results for that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robnie Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 hello i am ronnie and for al know is the best qts for a transmisionline between 0,5 and 0,7 thats what i have raed somewere but i am not sure. in the past i have used a t-line in a car it was verry acurat en i thougt loud to it was a t-line for a RE audio subwoofer the SE series 2x2 ohms its only a 600 watt sub i had a rockford bd1501 on it driven on a 1 ohm load giving it about 2000watts rms ps only play that amp on a 1 ohm load when you have enough power from your bateries otherwise it will go wrong. but back on the story that sub dit 142,3 db on daily music and sounded great in every way. it was tuned below 30hz for sure for the people who have a sub like that i try to put a drawing of the enclosure on this forum please note i did not calculate the enclosure i only build it that time the wood i used was 3cm whats that about 1,2 inch thick sorry for that i am from the netherlands now jou al know why my englisch writing is zo bad Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/849/tl30hz12inch.jpg/ the only problem for you guys its al in cm its tappered 0,5 thats what they told me that time it sounded great thats all thats matter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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