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Aero box design for 3 Soundqubed HDC3 18s. Help needed!!


rTisTik

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Ok so I was originally going to only be running 2 of these subs in the back of my 2007 F150 extended cab, but when I recieved the subs they were dual 2 ohm when I ordered dual 1 ohm. So I figured I could get another and wire them to 1.34 ohm final impedance rather than having SQ pay to ship them back I could buy another at a discount. I figured this was fair but have yet to get a reply from SQ. Either way I think this is the route I am going to be taking. So I was playing around with Torres and I am not sure if I have enough space for 3 of them in the backseat, this is where you all come in.

Max dimensions:

57 wide X 28 high X 24 deep I could possibly go to 30 inches high I just still want to be able to see out a little of the back window.

I had a nice box designed with subs forward and slot port up about 14.5 cu.ft. tuned to 32hz with almost 14 sq. in. of port per cu.ft. but adding another sub I think I am going to have to go with an aero port to make the most of the space I have available. I would like to have the subs face forward still but with only 57 inches wide I will probably have to offset them 2 low and 1 high or vice versa. I suppose could also put 2 facing forward and 1 up with the ports on top or is this a bad Idea?

If you guys can shoot me a few designs it would be much appreciated. These are going to be run by a CT Sounds 2500.1 for now until I get another one to strap them together. Electrical will be 250+ amp alt. not sure of brand yet, 2 Group 31 AGMs in the back and a few runs of SHCA 1/0 OFC. Front stage is 2 sets of RE audio XXX 6.5c on a Soundqubed Q4-120 working on installing that all today. I am not going for numbers or anything just a daily pounder tuned in the low 30 hz range. Let me know what you guys think as far a box design because I am pretty much lost when it comes to aero ports. Thanks in advance.

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Wow I posted this up earlier expecting to have a few replies when I checked it just now but I guess either my goal is unrealistic or I missed something critical that you guys need to design a box. Any input anyone? Anyways I got all my wire ran today and picked up 2 sheets of MDF and Im ready to start building tomorrow but no plans. Looks like Im back to playing with the box calculators Im sure I will figure something out.

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I would just keep the two and run .5 ohm with the 2500 . Same amp I have but I will be running 1 ohm with two hdc3 12s.

I ran my 1400.1 @ .5 with no problems at all.

80prs

Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier

Incriminator IA 10.1

Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors)

4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 

3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash)

DC Audio level 3 12"  custom box designed by joex built by me

AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear

DC 180 alt

99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/

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You could see if Joe X can design you a box for your truck, but i know those subs need atleast 6 cuft each (I'd shoot for 8cuft IMO)

2001 Civic LX Sedan
Pioneer DEH-7500HD

Big 3 in 1/0 Knu CCA
Rockford P500-4
RF Punch P165-S in doors
RF Punch P165 in rear deck
Front doors deadened with Damplifier

Next
SQ's new HDS208 8" in a T-line whenever it FINALLY COMES OUT I CAN FINALLY AFFORD IT
:dammit:

Bend over and I'll show ya.

how is it 2 days work? half a day at most, i may be an idiot, but im not an idiot.

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Would need like 8 6" flared aeros, for it to work and a place to fit everything right and then it goes below 18 cubes net. If you really want a rear view I'd stay at two subs with nice port area and enough space to place your amps and other stuff. If you are going all out then just go all the way up wall it, there's always rear view cameras.

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