truthsayer Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 haha the best value for an amp is that mtx listed because it was zero denero lol i had it laying in the garage along with multiple sets of rca's and 4 awg and 50 some odd feet of 12 awg speaker wire. No problem, thought you were buying it. Was just trying to steer you away from that mtx amp. Past experience JMO they suck. truthsayer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangaranga Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 haha the best value for an amp is that mtx listed because it was zero denero lol i had it laying in the garage along with multiple sets of rca's and 4 awg and 50 some odd feet of 12 awg speaker wire. No problem, thought you were buying it. Was just trying to steer you away from that mtx amp. Past experience JMO they suck. Yea i feel ya lol i would not pay any form currency for this amp. i had to fix the rca's because the solder joints broke, and the gain knobs have their own issues lmao they produce a static noise when turning the knobs and a speaker is hooked up (before i had a dd-1 #noob ) Brandon 2000 Furd Ranger supercab 4x4 System: welding wire throughout the truck USalts 390amp Hairpin Juicebox in stock location 8 Banks of maxwell supercaps 2 American Bass Vfl 1100.1 wired to .35 each 2 Fi Audio Sp4 18's ( the DD sc 9918's smoked) Pioneer radio with Soundstream PA mids Powered by a nice sized soundstream 2 channel It's pronounced (dain-ja rain-ja) 2001 2 door focus 1 DD9918 SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Like i said, probly a upgraded amp in your future. Those speakers should do you nicely. Take pics of install and reveiw speakers for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Those Pioneer speakers and tweets look Very* similar to the CZ's but the Pioneer crossovers look much better built. Same price points so prolly somewhat comparable performance wise IMO Looks can be very deceiving. Ok so i just realised i posted the wrong amp in the link. this is the correct amp http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_13293_MTX_Thunder404.aspx It claims 200w x2 at 4 ohms bridged (realistically probably 100-150w), Since i am only powering the front doors that should be plenty of power (it will be/already set with my DD-1) It appears that those pioneer's come with 6x8 adapters and have slightly more cone area so i might go with those. But what scares me is that people complained about the tweeters being too bright in the reviews. Kirill007 Have you personally used these pioneers? Yes, I've helped quite a few people install these in their car.(they are quite popular since most people don't want to spend too much and still have good perfomance) Those adapters are nice, but they should only be used as a guideline to cut out your own baffle's in 3/4 inch MDF/birch/... That's part of installing components correctly. If you want to know how to get the best performance out of components, I can help you out. Tweeters that are too bright can easily be helped out if you connect it to the -3dB level input or a slight cut on your EQ. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Here is the guide you should follow if you want any speaker to have decent midbass and make the whole speaker sound a lot better. Even if you buy the best components out there, if you don't mount them properly, you'll be dissapointed. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to/doors And here's how to make good baffles. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to/make-speaker-mounting-plates-out-mdf Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Great articles, lots of great info. Chasing rattles can be a bitch but midbass and sound gettings inproved big time. I had first sound deadened inner and outer skins and then installed T2 comps in and they had very little midbass. So after doing some research and buying more materials this is what i ended up doing. I probly have 80+ hrs in the door but is was way worth it. Here are some of what i did to give you some ideas too. Now i would like to get some more 1/4 acoustic foam and cover the whole inner skin to help reduce panel rattles. I have put strips of foam where it makes contact but it never seems to be enough. Like i said chasing the rattles can be a bitch. good luck and i hope my picks have help someone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangaranga Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thank you for the help, i believe i have some mdf at home for the adapters. as far as the deadening, that will have to wait until the summer when i have some cash flow and more time. would 3/8 - 1/2 mdf work, because i'm not sure how much room i have. Brandon 2000 Furd Ranger supercab 4x4 System: welding wire throughout the truck USalts 390amp Hairpin Juicebox in stock location 8 Banks of maxwell supercaps 2 American Bass Vfl 1100.1 wired to .35 each 2 Fi Audio Sp4 18's ( the DD sc 9918's smoked) Pioneer radio with Soundstream PA mids Powered by a nice sized soundstream 2 channel It's pronounced (dain-ja rain-ja) 2001 2 door focus 1 DD9918 SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Should work, just try and get a measurement from speaker now to see how close it is to backside of door panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangaranga Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Quick question, in the guide it shows using EBR to seal the mdf adapter to the door. Once i get a location finalised, could i use an adhesive instead like liquid nail on top of them being bolted to the door skin? I know I'm getting ahead of myself here, but do i need to use the hpf on the amp with these components or will the crossover take care of that? Brandon 2000 Furd Ranger supercab 4x4 System: welding wire throughout the truck USalts 390amp Hairpin Juicebox in stock location 8 Banks of maxwell supercaps 2 American Bass Vfl 1100.1 wired to .35 each 2 Fi Audio Sp4 18's ( the DD sc 9918's smoked) Pioneer radio with Soundstream PA mids Powered by a nice sized soundstream 2 channel It's pronounced (dain-ja rain-ja) 2001 2 door focus 1 DD9918 SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I would do what the guide says, its got info. That is to help seal the MDF to the doors so there are no air leaks. And Crossover will take care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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