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Posted

Subs up, port back would probably be best.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Posted

If I were you, i'd go with four 15's or three 18's in a window-line box, but that's just my opinion. It'd be a lot more efficient on power, which means louder for less.

But subs up, port back and give us some dimensions of the room you have to work with (think about extra batteries, space for amps, ect too)

2001 Civic LX Sedan
Pioneer DEH-7500HD

Big 3 in 1/0 Knu CCA
Rockford P500-4
RF Punch P165-S in doors
RF Punch P165 in rear deck
Front doors deadened with Damplifier

Next
SQ's new HDS208 8" in a T-line whenever it FINALLY COMES OUT I CAN FINALLY AFFORD IT
:dammit:

Bend over and I'll show ya.

how is it 2 days work? half a day at most, i may be an idiot, but im not an idiot.

Posted

I tried three setups in my suburban: subs up, port back; subs back, port side; subs and port back. Same sub, same amp, less than .2 dB difference between them.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

Posted

Here's one way to do it, power to around rated, port clearance to the rear gate is 5 1/2" minimum, sub positions are suggested but can be placed differently, figure is just for reference not to actual dimensions, do the suggested top to bottom and port braces shown:

8cvr.jpg

8cvrpic.jpg

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