Skax Posted March 18, 2014 Report Posted March 18, 2014 i made a post about this a while back and just wanted to clarify, i have a stinger voltmeter im ganna mount in the dash and wire straight to the amp and was wondering what wire would be ok to extend it to the amp and what i should use to connect the 2 wires together? would some butt connectors be fine? 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears
Wicks Posted March 19, 2014 Report Posted March 19, 2014 Voltmeters draw very little current so the wire can be small, 18-22ga would probly be fine. Soldering the wires together would be ideal but since there is little current in this circuit, butt connectors will be fine as long as they have a good solid crimp. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026
poorfish88 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Posted March 19, 2014 I second the post above, Second one for me just went after a whooping 2 weeks. SMD VM1 coming my way.
Wicks Posted March 19, 2014 Report Posted March 19, 2014 ^^^^^^^^^ LOL Good point! OP just asked how to get the voltmeter working so I answered. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026
Skax Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Posted March 19, 2014 ^^^^^^^^^ LOL Good point! OP just asked how to get the voltmeter working so I answered. yea ill upgrade to vm-1 when i get the cash but i am on a tight budget just need something to hold off till i can get it 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears
SavantStrike Posted March 19, 2014 Report Posted March 19, 2014 i made a post about this a while back and just wanted to clarify, i have a stinger voltmeter im ganna mount in the dash and wire straight to the amp and was wondering what wire would be ok to extend it to the amp and what i should use to connect the 2 wires together? would some butt connectors be fine? Amp in back? Be sure to fuse the circuit - preferably as close to the amp as possible. Even though the voltmeter doesn't draw any current to speak of, if for some reason you ended up with a short, bad thrings would happen. Fuse everything, always. It may seem excessive but there is a reason every circuit in a car is fused by the manufacturer no matter how big or how small it is. But yeah, 18-22 gauge wire would be fine as others mentioned. 18 gauge wire is 10 amps max, so I'd put a 7.5 amp fuse on it since you won't be drawing any current. 22 gauge is 5 amps, so again de rate the wire if you can (although finding a fuse and holder under 5 amps might be more of a pain).
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